Thread: CW&P ratios and other things

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

LC 60 are bloody strong for sure. Slunnie I do like the blue series. The only thing that may break is the cart springs or the driver if driven in anger.

If I had the time I would have used Tojo centers in the Rover housings. BEST OF BOTH WORLDS. I will have to drive mine to suit its strength. They will take a bit though.

Absolutely! I totally agree. To make the springs flex they need to be softened, when you soften them they wrap, if they wrap they need an antiwrap bar, if they need an anti wrap bar then I'm fabricating, if I'm fabricating then I mosewell link the lot up and get rid of the leafs. Thats my dilema. I really would like to link it all up, but again, that means more time off the road as opposed to buying some specced leafs and just driving it also.

I think the Toy into Rover setup is an excellent one also. Not only is there the strength, but you also maintain the Rover type clearance under the diffs. Actually, the setup that seriously fascinates me is the Ashcroft Hi9 centre into Rover housing - running that with 35 spline is pretty much the absolute limits for a Rover axle and will be about burst proof! That'd take 500hp in the rocks all day with 40" stickys and laugh at it.

Originally Posted by Dougal

I believe the weak point should be traction.

Absolutely, and based on driveline calculations this is what the manufacturers rely on also as opposed to a engine torque + gearing equation - so if you can generate more traction than expected, or jar the driveline then it still breaks.

my 2 cents worth.....

unless you drive like a mad man, i have gone down the route of jacmac axles, heat treated modified hilux c.v's, and standard rover diff cent's 3.54's - both locked, 4 yrs of abuse and all good (tap on wood) just installed maxi low range gears (cause now V8 auto and not isuzu LT77) and lost my high range from 1.44:1 to 1.02:1 (better on freeway, slower on road) if its only a play car like mine this will be fine, good cruising revs at 100km/hr and still low gearing for playing. another option to play wih you

Had a look at the 9" into Rover. VERY IMPRESIVELot of engineering going on with Dana style CV's etc. I wonder what the cost will be

Portaled Nisota may be similar price

Tony

Thanks for all the input guys. Cause I am not that mechanically skilled (although I am learning) I think I will go for a Toy setup cause it should be relatively strong and reliable. I dont mind doing some work but replacing broken axles, diffs and cvs doesn't interest me too much...would rather be driving!

Angus

Toyota centers or complete 80 housings. If you use the 80 housings your going to grade the tracks for our weak Rover little Diffs

I think you have made a good choice for reliability anyway

Tony

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

Toyota centers or complete 80 housings. If you use the 80 housings your going to grade the tracks for our weak Rover little Diffs

I think you have made a good choice for reliability anyway

Tony

Yeah toy centers. I understand the rover diffs generally have better clearance right?

Angus

On the 80s and 100's the rears are bigger, the fronts are comparable.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Actually, the setup that seriously fascinates me is the Ashcroft Hi9 centre into Rover housing - running that with 35 spline is pretty much the absolute limits for a Rover axle and will be about burst proof! That'd take 500hp in the rocks all day with 40" stickys and laugh at it. .

we put the prototype front axle on our stock 2007 90 today,

looks nice, need a couple of changes but should be on a competition car within 6 weeks for testing,

can't wait,

Dave