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Thread: Leaky Diff flange

  1. #11
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    I'd also recommend the new style seal...

    M

  2. #12
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    This is a very handy thread, as I have the same leak, ( well i think I do).

    along with the leak I have also developed a shudder and slap in the driveline ( sounds and feels like the rear end) as i release the clutch and you can hear a noise back there somewhere as I take off or if I labour it. Any Ideas????????.


    this noise has and shudder has only come on since i noticed the leak..

    THANKS

    Scott

  3. #13
    Rangier Rover Guest
    OK, have just ordered a new style seal and a new flange which they have in stock. Only just over $100 inc postage so I'm happy with that.

    Should get it early next week.

    I'll take some pics when I change it for those interested. Marking the nut position etc.

    Thanks all Tony

  4. #14
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Only Rovers View Post
    This is a very handy thread, as I have the same leak, ( well i think I do).

    along with the leak I have also developed a shudder and slap in the driveline ( sounds and feels like the rear end) as i release the clutch and you can hear a noise back there somewhere as I take off or if I labour it. Any Ideas????????.


    this noise has and shudder has only come on since i noticed the leak..

    THANKS

    Scott
    Has the flange nut come lose Or you need more preload on pinion. Uni joint? Tail shaft had a bump and bent?

  5. #15
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    Your Uni Joint looks to be dry, it may be worn and vibrating enough to cause the seal to leak, check it out, Regards Frank.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    Has the flange nut come lose Or you need more preload on pinion. Uni joint? Tail shaft had a bump and bent?
    Ok... I will investigate... hasnt had any bumps, so I Will check the other things.

    thanks for the direction..

    Cheers

    Scott

  7. #17
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Only Rovers View Post
    This is a very handy thread, as I have the same leak, ( well i think I do).

    along with the leak I have also developed a shudder and slap in the driveline ( sounds and feels like the rear end) as i release the clutch and you can hear a noise back there somewhere as I take off or if I labour it. Any Ideas????????.


    this noise has and shudder has only come on since i noticed the leak..

    THANKS

    Scott
    The shudder and slap is unlikely to be directly resulted to the oil leak, unless both are due to a loose nut on the pinion shaft or, less likely, a bad U-joint at the diff. The thing that most often makes drive line slack show up as you describe is a dragging handbrake. And one of the things that causes it to drag is oil leaking from the transfer case, although obviously not the diff.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    OK, have just ordered a new style seal and a new flange which they have in stock. Only just over $100 inc postage so I'm happy with that.

    Should get it early next week.

    I'll take some pics when I change it for those interested. Marking the nut position etc.

    Thanks all Tony
    The one problem I see with changing the flange is that unless it is exactly the same thickness (length) as the old flange your bearing preload will be wrong when you line up the marks on the nut and pinion. A few thou will make a huge difference to the preload/crush tube. The method of marking the nut position is really only valid if the only part you are replacing is just the seal itself.
    1995 Defender 110 300TDI :D
    1954 86" Series 1 Automatic :eek:
    Ex '66 109" flat deck, '82 109" 3 door, '89 110 CSW V8, '74 Range Rover, '66 88" soft top, '78 88" soft top, '95 Disco ES V8, '88 Surf, '90 Surf, '84 V8 Surf, '91 Vitara.

  9. #19
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo110 View Post
    The one problem I see with changing the flange is that unless it is exactly the same thickness (length) as the old flange your bearing preload will be wrong when you line up the marks on the nut and pinion. A few thou will make a huge difference to the preload/crush tube. The method of marking the nut position is really only valid if the only part you are replacing is just the seal itself.
    Hence why I don't like disturbing it. They should be the same I hope. I will mark the nut to shaft and also check preloud as I go.
    If I stuff it up It's only a new crush sleeve

    Tony

  10. #20
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    Make sure that the breather isn't blocked while you're there...

    M

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