Thread: Forward Control clutch.

that's all the ones I know of. starting in gear with the brakes on is how I got my 2.6 unstuck when I put it in at christmas last year.

Use a high gear rather than a low gear for the brakes deal.

However are you absolutely sure that it is the clutch stuck and not a hydraulic failure in the clutch system?

No hydraulic problem, just overhauled it. All the linkages are working and returning fine. I'll have another go in high range, but I'm convinced I have to do it the hard way.

Dan.
69 2A 88" pet4, 68 2B FC pet6.

Maybe try spraying some WD40 or similar into the bellhousing with the engine idling. Then having another go.

Any steep hills nearby? Or can you put a tonne or two in the back?

No interesting geography about, but I reckon I've got a half ton of my gear in the back, on top of the ridiculously heavy steel tray. The WD40 idea sounds good, in through the inspection and timing plates. I might even have a brief go with a curly screwdriver, too, but I don't hold much hope.

Thanks, all.

Dan.
69 2A 88" pet4, 68 2B FC pet6.

if youve got the timing acess panel....

remove the timing panel, install the wading plug and fill the bell housing with water.

give it hell.

DONT use any kind of oil in there

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

if youve got the timing acess panel....

remove the timing panel, install the wading plug and fill the bell housing with water.

give it hell.

DONT use any kind of oil in there

The Series IIB don't usually have a sealed clutch throw-out on the primary pinion, so I would also be very careful about filling the cavity with water. After that it would be quite a few flushes of the gearbox getting the water out of the gearbox and clutch withdrawal mechanism.

yep but 90% of the time the water level wont make it up past the level of the throw out arm...

once the clutch is freed up changing the gearbox oil out for some cheapy auto oil to pick up the water is a lot easier than trying to get a clutch thats full of oil to grip again.