Opinions....

Yep Thanks heaps guys,

Davo. :D

Oops sorry couple more Questions then ill leave uz alone haha,

1. If i get 3" dropped radius front arms, do i still need to do the swivel castor correction?

2. I have only found the front adj, panhard bar to get, cant find a rear. I see that silly looking sway bar thing on the rear which im pretty sure is being removed. Can you get rear panhard?

3. Exhaust wise, What is the recommended Exhaust size for the tdi 300, On patrols you put a 3" straight through but then on the 3L,s you need to block the EGR and put some sort of valve/controller to prevent "overboosting" But on the 4.2L you dont have to.

Do disco,s have that problem, Im going straight through system but what size?? :angel:

Thanks guys.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Monsta_disco

1. If i get 3" dropped radius front arms, do i still need to do the swivel castor correction?

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I can't answer that Q ... But others would know ...

Read this ....

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...ls-how-do.html

A search will reveal more on the "slotted holes" method

Mike
:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Monsta_disco

Oops sorry couple more Questions then ill leave uz alone haha,

1. If i get 3" dropped radius front arms, do i still need to do the swivel castor correction? what are these and where do they come from??

2. I have only found the front adj, panhard bar to get, cant find a rear. I see that silly looking sway bar thing on the rear which im pretty sure is being removed. Can you get rear panhard? you can! but not for a disco...they dont have one on the rear

3. Exhaust wise, What is the recommended Exhaust size for the tdi 300, On patrols you put a 3" straight through but then on the 3L,s you need to block the EGR and put some sort of valve/controller to prevent "overboosting" But on the 4.2L you dont have to.

Do disco,s have that problem, Im going straight through system but what size?? :angel: no they dont have an EGR system fitted in oz....2 1/2...3'' what ever floats your boat.

Thanks guys.

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cheers phil

2.5" is usually the go;)

Sweeeeeeet, thanks Phil, umm yer these arms replace the stock ones and they allow for more flex in the front and less stress on the joint/bush, dunno if they correct caster also. They are from snake racing:

"Snake Racing again is leading the way with innovative new products to help in the quest for more articulaton and correct steering geometry.
Our Latest "CAST" 3" steel "Dropped Radius Arms" are designed to fit the front of your Disco 1 with 2"-4" inches of lift."

"The fitting of the arms will correct many issues relating to lifting your truck, including the main problem being correct steering geometry.
The "Dropped Radius Arms" will also correct the alignment of the bush at the chassis. When a truck is lifted with standard arms the bush becomes "maxed out" preventing articulation."

:confused:

I just want to help here ok, before you lift a car you should have done your home work, grab a beer and the work shop manual and lay under the car and READ THE BOOK AND LOOK AT THE CAR this way you can have an understanding of what your car has that way when you go to the shops you don't look like a complete dick and less chance of being sold something you don't need.

the snake radius arms will correct caster angle but that may induce a drive line vibration because now you will have created a steeper drive line angle on the front prop shaft, you may get away with it though. that is why I said in a previous post to get slotted swivel hubs from LRA (Les Richmaond Automotive) because then you won't get drive line vibrations and it's cheaper.

I know it's exciting and all doing up your truck but you should have an understanding of what the mods effect then you can make informed decisions on how to fix it and when it has a problem you have an idea of how to fix it. Other wise you are just another monkey weekend worrier with to much money.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lambrover

I just want to help here ok, before you lift a car you should have done your home work, grab a beer and the work shop manual and lay under the car and READ THE BOOK AND LOOK AT THE CAR this way you can have an understanding of what your car has that way when you go to the shops you don't look like a complete dick and less chance of being sold something you don't need.

the snake radius arms will correct caster angle but that may induce a drive line vibration because now you will have created a steeper drive line angle on the front prop shaft, you may get away with it though. that is why I said in a previous post to get slotted swivel hubs from LRA (Les Richmaond Automotive) because then you won't get drive line vibrations and it's cheaper.

I know it's exciting and all doing up your truck but you should have an understanding of what the mods effect then you can make informed decisions on how to fix it and when it has a problem you have an idea of how to fix it. Other wise you are just another monkey weekend worrier with to much money.

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Yes i get what your saying, but im not a mechanic nor ever had a land rover, thats why im here. I know zooks like the back of my a@#$ cheek coz i owned one, but im still not a mechanical engineer so i wouldn't build one up from scratch, i got a pro to do it. And if they wanna ripp me off, then good on them, they will get theres later in life.

Im just after info from ppl that have had the experience, and the only way you do is to own one really. I get things done properly by professionals, i dont have the tools or full knowledge to do serious stuff, only the basics. Just after guidance/direction. I think those arms from "snake" are a ripppp to be honest. Iv already learned a bit from this site, and it hasn't even been a week.

AND i am kinda a monkey with to much money, but i worked 7 nights 14 hours straight since i was 18 for 6 years to get it unlike some.

Thats the spirit mate....

Or is it???

i cant comment on the snake arms, i havnt seen any in action. have a look at QT services and Equip they have there own front radius arms that may well be cheaper? BUT for a disco...there REALLY is no need to go big in spring lifts! keep to 2-3'' spring lift and then 2-3'' body lift. too much spring lift and you will loose all that great rover articulation. theres no point having a huge lift if the suspension only flexes down.

also with a 2-3'' spring lift sloted swivells to correct caster and wide angle uni joints on the front and rear shafts will see most of the common issues solved.


cheers phil