Thread: Rear recovery hook

Originally Posted by elco

Why bother to make one when it is for sale at any good FWD shop .I got mine from Bushwhacker for $45.00 and it is ADR approved.

To which ADR is it approved?

Tony

Originally Posted by Tank

The Nyloc nuts shown above are on bolts too short for them, the thread hasn't even gone thru the "Nylon" part of the nut, which is designed to stop the nuts from coming loose and coming off, bolts about 6mm longer would be better, Regards Frank.

yep, thats the point I was trying to make by calling them 'stubby'

Go for it mate, unless there is a secret something they put in the ADR one I don't see why yours will be any different if indeed you are makeing one just like it (same parts etc)

Don't forget to post up piccys, rekon I might make one too. Or maybe I will weld a recover eye straight to the rear crossmember on the Series IIA

Originally Posted by cucinadio

Hi Guys

lm thinking of making one of these, have all the parts ready to go ....opinions?



cheers

Thinking the same thing.

I assume this is a solid section? any particular grade steel?

I'm thinking of just milling it at the end to take a shakle (width) and then drilling it size for the shakle pin.

I was then thinking of drilling two pin holes + so it can ge turned to have the shakle either up or down

Originally Posted by scott oz

Thinking the same thing.

I assume this is a solid section? any particular grade steel?

I'm thinking of just milling it at the end to take a shakle (width) and then drilling it size for the shakle pin.

I was then thinking of drilling two pin holes + so it can ge turned to have the shakle either up or down

That one isn't solid, you can see with the corner radius that it's hollow.
Solid is massive overkill, but if that's what you've got lying around then fine. Mild steel is best for items like this because it stretches a lot when overloaded. Enough to go "hey look, it's stretched" rather than "wow, that fractured clean in two".

Your main concern, keep enough metal around the shackle hole so it can't pull out. I know it's a common sense but you'd be surprised how uncommon it can be.

Originally Posted by cucinadio

hope this helps mate







cheers

Can anyone help me out with measurements on this?

The length/width/height of the rear box section and the thickness of the two side plates are needed.
I have a classic rangie so mount geometry isn't difficult. But my rangie doesn't have those two side bolts. Are they standard late disco attachments or aftermarket?
Also for completeness, the protrustion of the square receiver (from cross member to end) and how far back the pin hole sits.

Cheers.

Originally Posted by Dougal

Can anyone help me out with measurements on this?

The length/width/height of the rear box section and the thickness of the two side plates are needed.
I have a classic rangie so mount geometry isn't difficult. But my rangie doesn't have those two side bolts. Are they standard late disco attachments or aftermarket?
Also for completeness, the protrustion of the square receiver (from cross member to end) and how far back the pin hole sits.

Cheers.

yhea l will as soon as l get a chance ....would love to see the stat's will be with you soon

cheers

Originally Posted by Newbs-IIA

dunno if I would trust those sudbby ones

Sudbby?

OK so an extension on what is being said ....what about the pin in the treg hitch ?



cheers