LR’s stance on not using WDH with air sus has been explained here many times before.
The recommendations only came out after the D2 was released – note not an issue with the P38a… The problem occurs when the load bars are fitted to lift the rear, the ECU detects this and reduces air pressure to regain the set height. Nothing bad so far – there’s more to these systems than "sitting level" …
What can happen is the bars can be adjusted in a manner that lifts too much weight off the rear and the rear suspension pressures drop significantly putting far greater torsion through the towbar assembly than it can handle (and vehicle can become unstable with a soft air spring). This is not likely with coils as the user will notice the car sitting high in the rear and adjust before setting off – but with air the user has no idea how much force is being applied through the frame, the ECU continually adjusts to mask it. Note the factory tow bar assembly is the weak link - This is why the P38a didn’t have the warnings. There are several cases in AUS where the factory casting on the D3 (one I know of was coiled) has completely snapped off. Compare the difference HR tow kit and the factory D2 frame – it’s huge….
LR recommend not to use WDH – it’s bad… They are never going to admit that LR has fitted pathetic tow frames to their vehicles… VW, Merc and Toyota have no issues with WDH being used with their air suspension equipped vehicles because that don’t have some stupid system between the tow bar and vehicle chassis.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Redback
The tow vehicle is the key, if you set it up properly with the right suspension FOR TOWING and also if the van your towing has good suspension, tyres with the correct pressures and good load spread, you shouldn't need these tow aids.
Also a WDH will NOT stop swaying, these devices only make things level:D
Your right - a well set up rig sould never NEED a tow aid. I don’t agree at all with that second point. It’s not a just case of making it level – my air suspension does that. It transfers weight to the front axle of the car - giving back its designed spring/shock rates, it creates a torsion bond between the car and trailer chassis which dramatically changes the rig behaviour especially on poor surfaces.
There is a process to initially set up WDH with air equipped vehicles. I have used WDH with air suspension LRs for over 12 years now and won’t drag our 3.2t boat at highway speeds without it (notified and approved by my insurance co when LR kicked up originally). It’s true that I don’t NEED a WDH but the rig handles and rides significantly better with it- providing it is not over adjusted. I can add that WDH does not add as much improvement to an air sus vehicle as it does to a coil car but it still adds a hell of a lot. It is easy to see from the replys in this thread who has tried/tested a properly adjusted WDH and who hasn’t….
And for the record my trailer has load sharing sus, shock absorbers fitted to all four wheels, runs 60psi in tyres and a ball weight of 280kg. Boat trailers are fully adjustable and we’ve tested many different ball weights. A ball weight of 20kg was just dangerous – 3.2t seesaw just picks the rear of the car up and pushes it around like a rag doll - a seesaw that is not balanced behaves more predicably.