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Thread: Thomas PTO & 12V electric winch

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    Thomas PTO & 12V electric winch

    Hi all,

    I am hoping someone here can assist with clarification of the purpose of this combination winch below. Anyone seen in use or used one of these? It is a Thomas brand but it has a 12V motor and a PTO shaft.



    Is this a Primarily a PTO driven winch with secondary 12V motor back-up, or a 12V winch with a PTO outlet?

    Cheers,

    Phil

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    I've never seen one on a landy but I have in a couple of small slips the ones on the slips are normally electrically driven but have a crank handle alongside.

    ID suggest that mounted to a landy youd do it the otherway pto driven with the electrics as a backup.
    Dave

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    I've never seen one on a landy but I have in a couple of small slips the ones on the slips are normally electrically driven but have a crank handle alongside.

    ID suggest that mounted to a landy youd do it the otherway pto driven with the electrics as a backup.
    Thanks Blknight, yes, I'm inclined to think of PTO being primary drive and the 12V as back up when the truck is unable to use engine power. I am looking at one here and the owner was pretty vague about the purpose of the PTO and the response could have been interpreted to be either way.

    Just needing it to be confirmed by one who has seen these set up in a vehicle.

    Cheers,

    Phil

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    I used to have a thomas winch, and some of the research I did during a rebuild showed that what you've pictured is a electric model with a manual crank (backup) for the electric motor.

    The good news is that you can just unbolt the gearbox ( a little like a lt230) and bolt on the pto adaptor ( they still make them - google powauto) - bad news is that it looks like the other end of the winch is missing. I can't see whether the cog that transmits power from the shaft to the drum is present or not, but without the other side it's almost impossible to mount on a vehicle.

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    Quote Originally Posted by langy View Post
    I used to have a thomas winch, and some of the research I did during a rebuild showed that what you've pictured is a electric model with a manual crank (backup) for the electric motor.

    The good news is that you can just unbolt the gearbox ( a little like a lt230) and bolt on the pto adaptor ( they still make them - google powauto) - bad news is that it looks like the other end of the winch is missing. I can't see whether the cog that transmits power from the shaft to the drum is present or not, but without the other side it's almost impossible to mount on a vehicle.
    Langy, you are right with both. It is a thomas electric winch with the optional hand crank adaptor (they came in 12 or 24V) and the other end is missing. My guess is that this piece is still available from Powauto,......Brian

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    Thank you Langy and Bearman, useful info about the hand crank. It backs up what Blknight said about boat slipway use.

    Sorry I should have indicated that the winch pictured is not the winch I am looking at obtaining as this picture above is a result of web research I have been trying to do to figure out what you guys have told me. It does indeed appear to be missing the end. The one I am looking at is complete. It is a 12V model. It would come with a new 12V motor.

    It was indicated to me that the outlet (now seemingly a hand crank input) was actually an input shaft for a PTO option, i.e. you can hook it to a PTO drive off an LT230.

    Do you guys know whether the hand crank would cope with direct drive from a PTO off the back of an LT230?

    Cheers for the replies so far.

    Phil

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    I dont think you would be able to use it that way as the hand crank is on the wrong side and is only like an idler gear in the gearbox, better off to get onto Powauto and buy the rear plate for the PTO drive and change it from electric to PTO.

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    Good morning Bearman,

    I am considering this winch in two different configurations now it is becoming clear it is not a PTO input shaft.

    Option one is a remote mounted winch on a hayman reece hitch style mount and having the front rear and sides of the truck (1984 110 trayback) with receivers. This way when not in use it sits in a cradle on the trayback.

    Option two is a mid-mounted system mounted above the passenger side chassis rail and behind the battery box between cab and trayback but allow room for an arm to wind the hand crank on the occasions the 12V is not able to be used. This mid mounted system would see the wire running to a snatch block in the rear and then forward following the chassis rail to the front.

    Both these options have the aim to keep the electrics out of the water from frequent river crossings and the occasional mud hole.

    All this is still in planning stage and is contingent on me feeling comfortable getting this winch in the first place. As I think about the hand crank option I recall all those times I had to get the hi-lift set up as a winch to pull me out of something when the electric winch died. With the hand crank option, it is another layer of recovery 'insurance'. Not a bad thing to have.

    I am pleased to note winch industries still makes parts for these winches. Another plus.

    I guess I am saving some money by retaining the electric option as I already have the wiring and battery capacity to use electrics but I kept boiling/burning/drowning/abusing motors in a conventional low-mount situation. Am in the position where I need to buy another winch anyway and this is one of the options I am looking at.

    Cheers,

    Phil

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    Smile

    [QUOTE=windsock;1080876]Good morning Bearman,

    I am considering this winch in two different configurations now it is becoming clear it is not a PTO input shaft.

    Option one is a remote mounted winch on a hayman reece hitch style mount and having the front rear and sides of the truck (1984 110 trayback) with receivers. This way when not in use it sits in a cradle on the trayback.

    Option two is a mid-mounted system mounted above the passenger side chassis rail and behind the battery box between cab and trayback but allow room for an arm to wind the hand crank on the occasions the 12V is not able to be used. This mid mounted system would see the wire running to a snatch block in the rear and then forward following the chassis rail to the front.

    Both these options have the aim to keep the electrics out of the water from frequent river crossings and the occasional mud hole.

    All this is still in planning stage and is contingent on me feeling comfortable getting this winch in the first place. As I think about the hand crank option I recall all those times I had to get the hi-lift set up as a winch to pull me out of something when the electric winch died. With the hand crank option, it is another layer of recovery 'insurance'. Not a bad thing to have.

    I am pleased to note winch industries still makes parts for these winches. Another plus.

    I guess I am saving some money by retaining the electric option as I already have the wiring and battery capacity to use electrics but I kept boiling/burning/drowning/abusing motors in a conventional low-mount situation. Am in the position where I need to buy another winch anyway and this is one of the options I am looking at.

    Cheers,

    Good morning Phil,
    I would set it up as an electric version seeing as how you have all the electrics setup. The only drawback with electrics is it takes forever to spool the cable back in after you have done a retrieve. You mention it comes witha new electric motor - I would dismantle the new motor and check the commutator segments where the brushed run on them and check for loose segments. I had one of these winches and this happened about the third time I used it. It was out of warranty and luckily the manufacturer honoured the warranty seeing as how it had only been used a few times. I sent the old motor back to them as they stated they had never seen this problem before and sent a new motor back. I dismantled it to check it before installing and found it had loose segments from new so I sent it back to them. They sent another one and thankfully it was ok but to make sure I bound and Araldited the commutator wiring where it joins the segments. I dont know if anyone else has had this problem but 2 out of 3 wasnt a good run. The winch itself is bulletproof and you can get around the water issues by waterproofing the motor with silicon - I had mine underwater many times without any water ingress. The hand crank is a good option in case of motor failure or flat battery. You do need a good high amperage alternator and good battery capacity to run them. Happy winching.....Brian P.S... Always use a snatch block on them when pulling big loads as it is much easier on the electrics.

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    Brian, cheers for that information about the commutators. Given my vague understanding of electric motors, this means they're a series wound motor does it?

    Agreed on the time taken to spool it all back in again. Always nice though to have a breather once out of whatever situation one was winching from. From the Winch Industries site these winches are capable of holding 30m of rope normally but also up to 70m of rope! At a few metres a minute thats a lot of breathing... and time for a brew

    Snatch blocks are a key part of my kit already and I have a 60amp alternator charging into a single SLI Optima battery. The last winch I had used to peak at 310 amp draw at full load and the optima handled that. Winch industries indicate that at full load these motors draw 250amps (assumes that the motors are the same on the old winch).

    Cheers

    Phil

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