Recovery Hooks - Tow Hooks

**Davo** · 22nd October 2009, 01:54 PM

A big thanks for that! I saw another of those pretty pictures on the "recovery-with-a-tow-pin" thread and forgot that was you.

I've got two of those hooks from years and years ago and they don't even have a rating stamped on them. It's also confusing when other people tell you that hooks are better so that you don't have shackles ready to break off and become missiles. However, I think that heavy steel plate is unlikely to break when a shackle pulls on it. Just so long as everything is made and used right.

I think that, yes, anything used within its capabilities is fine, and that, yes, you have to know what you're doing. I just tend to overdo the safety aspect as much as possible because I live in the middle of nowhere and people do some really loopy things, usually because of ignorance, lack of experience, lack of the right gear, and then there's my personal favourite: because when you're out here the usual rules don't seem to apply!

**Dougal** · 22nd October 2009, 03:47 PM

Originally Posted by garrycol

Where do we draw the line - most equipment we use does not specify the standard used - the hooks I have, have a rating of 10,000lb and are the items sold by ARB. I am the first to be critical of ARB but I do not believe that would falsify the rating on these hooks. It would just be nice to know whether that is swl or total max load.

ARB, like everyone else selling them will have no idea. They come with the numbers cast into them. They go on the shelves and people buy them.

Originally Posted by garrycol

People have responded to this thread that they have found them great if used within their design capabilities - ie use two with a bridle to share the load. One will be strong enough for most snatches but to be safe and to be sure the chassis is not damaged (applies to any recovery point) the installation of one on each chassis rail should be used.

Garry

There is no way I'd put a bridle between these hooks. The side load they can take is a fraction of their direct pull load. Putting anything between them introduces a decent side load. Pulling at 30 degrees gives a side load that's half the line pull.

IMO it's much safer to pull directly on one hook. If you're concerned about chassis damage then you're already way past the limits of these hooks.

**Rudolf** · 23rd October 2009, 03:02 AM

Here in RSA the drive for Unit Standards in 4x4 drinving is going on in full swing.
One criteria that does not form part of the requirements is snatch recoveries.
Pull straps and rpoes are on the approved list but Kinetic straps and ropes are not.
I can only imagione why but my feeling is that its too dangerous and open for a whole lot of discussions on what is proper anchoring points.
A lot of discussions are doing their round regerding recovery points.
In a lot of cases just a tow or pull would suffice but over eager peolple always want to snatch.
They would also rather snatch than just dig and tow the vehicle out.
Personally I would rather redesign my recovery points to a plate design out of 350WA plate or angle iron with yield of 350MPa.
I think I will do this anyway.

**Dougal** · 23rd October 2009, 05:22 AM

Originally Posted by Rudolf

Personally I would rather redesign my recovery points to a plate design out of 350WA plate or angle iron with yield of 350MPa.
I think I will do this anyway.

IMO it's better to use the softest material available. Mild steel with a yield of 200-250 MPa stretches a lot more before failure, allowing you to see damage to your recovery points before they fail.

I think failure mode is far more important than breaking load. Something which gives up gradually and slowly is far better than a fast fracture.

Thread: Recovery Hooks - Tow Hooks

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