Thread: Recovery Hooks - Tow Hooks

See my thread here for these onto the rear of a D2.
The front I am still working on to get a good solution.
D2 rear recovery points + hi lift tubes.

These hooks are std on some of the Toyota's.
I never plan to use only one hook when doing a recovery but both hooks together with a bridle strap.
The connectyion to these will be with schackles and the bridle to kinetic strap will be strap on strap.
Thus when something goes wrong you would not have a projectile comming at you but only the kinetic strap.

Originally Posted by Rudolf

See my thread here for these onto the rear of a D2.
The front I am still working on to get a good solution.
D2 rear recovery points + hi lift tubes.

These hooks are std on some of the Toyota's.
I never plan to use only one hook when doing a recovery but both hooks together with a bridle strap.
The connectyion to these will be with schackles and the bridle to kinetic strap will be strap on strap.
Thus when something goes wrong you would not have a projectile comming at you but only the kinetic strap.

What do you use for the bridle, a tree trunk protector or is there a specific item for this?

Dave.

I've got 2 on the front of my D1 and 2 on my Puma.

The D1 has done a lot of snatching, no problems, but I try and split the load over both hooks if it a big snatch (just use a tree protector hooked straight on to the hooks)

Not sure how they'd go with a 101 - that's a fair bit more weight....

Originally Posted by spudboy

I've got 2 on the front of my D1 and 2 on my Puma.

The D1 has done a lot of snatching, no problems, but I try and split the load over both hooks if it a big snatch (just use a tree protector hooked straight on to the hooks)

Not sure how they'd go with a 101 - that's a fair bit more weight....

Thanks - while a 101 has a 1.5 tonne load carrying capacity, empty it is slightly lighter than a Disco 1. So for normal everyday type 4wding it will weight about the same as a disco.

Garry

Greetings for the UK, and from someone who pet hate is poor recovery points as I do a lot of marshalling / recovery

Key points are

10,000 is not enough IMHO - your snatch block is 20,000 ???
Anything open is prone to having things come off, closed is better
Use only tested shackles and big ones too
If things part company death or severe injury is a possiblity
esp if there is a large lump of metal on the end of the wire / hook / strop
Any recovery point is only as strong as its fixings

As such I have closed loop waaaay OTT 20mm solid rod heated with Oxt / Acet bent round home made former, then drill holes through winch bumper and then weld hoops on the outside along the inside into the winch system and use 12.9 Ton HD bolts and load of them to secure the winch bumper (homemade 8 / 10mm) nothing can come off, and even things like Jate rings and the swivelly hook type thing make me nervious as I have seen crossmembers / bumpers deform etc partly due to poor seign, partly that these are just 1 bolt being tuigged on and also due to no spreader plate on the backs, spreader plated are essential IMHO

Hope the above helps, what ever you go for don't scrimp

Nige

Originally Posted by Kam Diff Nige

Greetings for the UK, and from someone who pet hate is poor recovery points as I do a lot of marshalling / recovery

Key points are

10,000 is not enough IMHO - your snatch block is 20,000 ???
Anything open is prone to having things come off, closed is better
Use only tested shackles and big ones too
If things part company death or severe injury is a possiblity
esp if there is a large lump of metal on the end of the wire / hook / strop
Any recovery point is only as strong as its fixings

As such I have closed loop waaaay OTT 20mm solid rod heated with Oxt / Acet bent round home made former, then drill holes through winch bumper and then weld hoops on the outside along the inside into the winch system and use 12.9 Ton HD bolts and load of them to secure the winch bumper (homemade 8 / 10mm) nothing can come off, and even things like Jate rings and the swivelly hook type thing make me nervious as I have seen crossmembers / bumpers deform etc partly due to poor seign, partly that these are just 1 bolt being tuigged on and also due to no spreader plate on the backs, spreader plated are essential IMHO

Hope the above helps, what ever you go for don't scrimp

Nige

Do you have big crush tubes in your chassis?
Spreading the load from a bumper or recovery point to the thin walled landrover chassis is the hard part.

A few rigging facts.
1. Do not use shackles (unless there is no alternative), use a LONG bridle strap and keep the angle between the 2 eyes as low as possible.
2. hook each eye onto the 2 chassis hooks after passing the bridle strap through the eye of the snatch strap, no shackles needed.
3. A bridle strap's strength is not increased by putting each eye on a recovery point on each side of the chassis.
4. A bridle strap should be as long as possible to reduce the angle between the eyes, a bridle strap which is too short can create dangerous loads on the strap,e.g. a 45 degree angle will halve the capacity of the strap, 90 degrees will DOUBLE the load being snatched.
5. If you use shackles they should be attached to recovery points that have a VERTICAL eye, shackles are NOT designed to be pulled at an angle (sideways)
6. COMMONSENSE is your friend, dont have anyone in the back (or front, except driver) of the tow car, keep spectators well away.
Regards Frank.

So getting back to the 4500kg/10,000lb recovery/tow hooks - other than Rudolf and Spudboy - any one actually using these. I am tempted to get two from Supercrap and mount each one on my front spring hangers with crush tubes and use the tree protector as a bridle.

Cheers

Garry