Reply With QuoteSTC1130
Master
As the title suggests, Anyone know the part no for the bearing in the front output housing?
It's the one that supports the drive flange etc. Any help would be appreciated.
Thomas
YarnMaster
SubscriberSTC1130
Master
Awesome. Thanks Fluids
Thomas
Wizard
Also check if it could be generic 6207C3. I just got some bearings from the UK with this as STC1130. Could be cheaper (and better!)
Pete
Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE
Swaggie
MAKE sure it has the C3 suffix, this is a radial clearance specification and is VERY important.Originally Posted by Pierre
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Wizard
Absolutely, Justin. Particularly when using the generic bearing (good quality and probably OEM) in BW transfer boxes.
BTW, nearly all the BW bearings are available generic, with the proviso that C3 is specified as the radial clearance.
Cheers
Pete
Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE
Master
Just pulled it out. Its a SKF bearing part no 6207. There is no C3 prefix on the bearing itself.
Should i get the C3 or just get the same one? I'm not reusing the output housing. I'm using the Ashcroft CDL output housing.
Thomas
Swaggie
Is there a possibily that the bearing has failed due to NOT being a C3 suffix?
The C3 refers to radial clearance and when a non C3 bearing is used the outer race when pressed into a housing can exert too much stress/ preload on the roling elements, causing failure.
I have seen several Subaru EJ22 cam belt idlers fail this way for example
Sometimes the C3 is written/ stamped further round from the actual part number.
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Master
I will have a look, thanks Justin.
The bearing hasn't failed. I'm just replacing it as a precaution. As far as I know its the original factory fitted bearing. The vehicle has 180'000 kms on it and I thought I would replace the bearing rather than putting an old one in the new housing. There appears to be nothing wrong with it. It's not notchy or anything like that. No play in it either. I'm keen to hear your thoughts on wether it's worth replacing or not?
Thomas
Swaggie
Thomas,
To really make sure, thouroughly clean and dry said bearing, then lightly oil it. Spin it and feel for notchyness, also with these bearings they are quite easy to inspect as the elements are quite big enough so you can have a look at the inner and outer race condition with a good light and gently rotating it. If I were you because the generic ones aren't too expensive, I would replace it at 180K. I have seen them last much longer but having got the shaft out already, then fit a new one. You CAN do it in situ aswell, just hook out the seal, remove the circlip and use a slide hammer to pull the whole shaft etc out. Make sure CDL is engaged first though, or the locking sleeve will drop down and you may not be able to realign it again easily.
Out of interest, the OE bearings have a certain amount of radial movement so that the front output shaft feels quite alarmingly loose, up and down movement, but that is normal. This is not apparent with the non C3 bearings.
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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