Thread: D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring

Originally Posted by ADMIRAL

Hayman Reese have a new remote controller. Head to your local HR dealer, and ask to see the compact remote controller. I think the number is 05550. Similar setup to the Redarc remote, but with the addition of a progressive brake application control dial.

Thanks for that - I have just looked on their site and here is the product:
Hayman Reese



Looks like it takes a bit more real estate than the Redarc, and the eBay price of $205 makes it a bit more expensive as well (but it has that extra feature).

I just had a look at the Haymen Reese compact comtroller. It unfortunately is also not a proportional controller. Im not exactly sure what the extra synch control does? I think you can set how quickly the controller applies the set brake force. Rather than it just applying the brakes at the set level it can apply them more progressively at a rate set by you.

Proportional controllers detect the amount of decelleration in the car and apply more brake power the quicker you stop. I much prefer the proportional approach. It just makes more sense that the trailer is applying a similar amount of brake force as the car.

So its back to the drawing board to find a suitable one that doesnt take up space. Otherwise i will have to mount it in the open fron top glove box as previously suggested here.

Peter

Originally Posted by eddomak

Thanks for that - I have just looked on their site and here is the product:
Hayman Reese



Looks like it takes a bit more real estate than the Redarc, and the eBay price of $205 makes it a bit more expensive as well (but it has that extra feature).

Visually it does look bulky, but in reality, it is very compact. The square box in the pic, can be mounted anywhere and is about 70mm square. The rotary controls and the indicator are effectively just wiring with the switchgear/globes on the end. I guess if you didn't want the sticker, they could be mounted anywhere in any order.

The progressive control allows a variable time for your preset brake pressure to be achieved. The proportional controllers usually use a pendulum type setup internally to measure decelleration. As a result they are generally bulky, and have mounting limitations. I think the maximum angle they can be mounted on is about 35 degrees ( Could be wrong at 35, but there is a maximum angle allowed.) As they use pendulums, they are deficient in off road use, and are pretty much designed for blacktop.

The P3 doesn't use a pendulum but an electronic accelerometer which itself is quite small. Accelerometers work in specific planes and their operation is not affected by movements in other planes.

Any suggestions as to where is the best spot for the Redarc remote head?

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Hi all. Just curious regarding the fitment of an electric brake controller on my disco 4. I have read the relevant threads and I have a couple of questions.
I have traced out the wiring on my truck, removed the LH rear tail light ass and the plastic cover on the inside, and the trailer plug under cover above tow ball. Just wondering where the wires that are plugged into the trailer wiring loom go???? I know the LR3, (in the US anyway), has a grey plastic plug under the dash that just gets plugged into the brake control unit, so these wires are factory terminated where the control unit would be retro fitted. Does the LR 4 not have the same set up?? Surely Land Rover must realize that a great many of the customers would benefit from this pre-installed wiring and it would represent a much faster, easier and tidier install.

You're right ,it would be nice if the D4 was 'plug & play'. I recently did my D4 MY13 following the instructions in this post and it works as expected. The wiring loom in the LH rear has a label identifying it as the AU trailer harness. Running the wires thru was time consuming but I did the dual battery at the same time. If you're wondering how to get the white and black wires into the engine bay, just look above the steering arm in the engine bay and you'll see a large grommet. Take it out and use a screwdriver to push a hole thru the soundproofing into the drivers footwell. Have fun