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Thread: Ultra flexi coils

  1. #21
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    Chief, I have no handling problems but I have got castor correction from slotting my swivel hubs a while ago, I did mine myself but can be done by a machine shop if you could explain it to them or you can send yours to les Richmond automotive and they can do it for you. If you want castor corrected radius arms best going through the web and buying from the UK, try QT services they have some good gear. Do you have a defender or a county, defenders don't have wide angle uni joints like the countys so don't like being lifted as high with standard front prop shafts but can be overcome by fitting a double Cardon joint instead.

  2. #22
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    thanks ill give them a look at! I hav a 110 county standard front end except for MD rear steering arm and rear end is disc brake defender rear end. With the slotting would u hav any details or photos on how to do it ? I might be able to get it done at home if it can be done on a mill,lathe or filling machine... Once its done does that mean a huge lift can be obtained ? Not planning on getting more than 3" but just curious thats all!

  3. #23
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    Ok sounds good, I have a disc rear conversion on mine, how much better is it. Regarding the slotting of the swivel hubs it can be done at home and it sounds as if you have the right tools, can you remind me in a weeks time to draw a plan
    On how to do it, I am away with work at the moment. I just remembered try looking up slotted swivel hubs in either tech or defender/county section look for discowhite and my posts. But if you need a bit of help let me know. You are correct with the slotting you can fit a big lift but say you where going for 5 to 6 inch I would fit 3 degree arms and use the swivel hubs to get the rest, my reason is I feel the axle housing is over rotated at that height so the pinion angle is server and the 3 degree corrected arms will pull the pinion down a bit but only correct the castor a little so would need the slotted hubs, it is being a bit pedantic and could get away with out the arms. I only have the hubs done, and is good with the three inch lift.

  4. #24
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    Disc brakes are just so much better its not funny ok no worries ill remind you in a weeks time if I hav not figured it out by then thanks.. I personally dont like the idea of body lifts at all (not on topic but still) but I dont mind say 3" suspension lift but as for 6" I hav never seen lift kits for defenders/countys that big ? is it worth going that big or can it make it worse offroad even with offset rims and big tyres ? For shocks I am looking at the bilstein 5150 series between 10 and 12" travel.. They look more offroad orientated than standard bilsteins but not quite the price as the full rally style monsters !

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f View Post
    Disc brakes are just so much better its not funny ok no worries ill remind you in a weeks time if I hav not figured it out by then thanks.. I personally dont like the idea of body lifts at all (not on topic but still) but I dont mind say 3" suspension lift but as for 6" I hav never seen lift kits for defenders/countys that big ? is it worth going that big or can it make it worse offroad even with offset rims and big tyres ? For shocks I am looking at the bilstein 5150 series between 10 and 12" travel.. They look more offroad orientated than standard bilsteins but not quite the price as the full rally style monsters !
    I haven't seen a six inch lift for 110's but for the discos I have and it's the same principle, in which I was referring forgetting we are in a 110 section, sorry for the confusion. Me personally I wouldn't lift any more than 4 inch on a 110, as you alluded to it would become unstable in the bush under certain circumstances. I have seen the 5150 series shocks on the net they do look good, those shock lengths should work all right do you need modified mounts for them.

  6. #26
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    I hav come across a 5.5" lift before but it was on some hard to find custom parts shop on the net. Yeah I would be quite happy with 3" ! Well I think the shocks are eye to eye not eye to pin but I am prepared to make mounts up considering I might need to adjust open closed lengths to suit the 3" coils.. I did once consider coilovers but they need engineering they cost alot they need a bit of time spent on moding things and in the end its a 110 not a custom buggy!

  7. #27
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    If you are only going to use shocks with 10-12" of travel,you will only need 2" lifted springs.You will need to modify your shock mounts and will not cycle the suspension through its full usable range.

    Wayne

  8. #28
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    I just checked there are ones in that range that are 14.3" travel is this a good amount of travel or just average ? The valving I dont understand is it to do with compression rate/decompression rate ? I am putting the 3" coils in and with say 14" of travel is it possible to dislocate spring when flexing or is more travel needed?

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f View Post
    I just checked there are ones in that range that are 14.3" travel is this a good amount of travel or just average ? The valving I dont understand is it to do with compression rate/decompression rate ? I am putting the 3" coils in and with say 14" of travel is it possible to dislocate spring when flexing or is more travel needed?
    Im running 5000's with 14.3" stroke.

    With my 3" inch sus stuff coils it still drops below the cones which can cause problems .

    Im going back to std rear coils and 2" fronts. the fix the relocation problems.


    As the std coils have a much shorter free lenght meaning the axle is much closer to level when the cone goes back in.


    Also mine drives like a peice of **** with the lift.


    14" is around the max the rover rear end can flex

  10. #30
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    c.h.i.e.f. don't get caught up in all the "higher is better" garage that goes on,particularly around the Japanese vehicle owners.
    You will get all the suspension travel you need from a properly set up Defender with no more than 2" spring lift,and you definately DON'T want any body lift.
    You also need to cycle your suspension from maximum droop to full compression,without any shocks fitted.That way you will be able to work out open and closed lengths of the shocks that will be required,and what if any modifications are required to shock mounts.
    The idea is to let the suspension do the work,while trying to keep the body as level as possible,keeping the COG as low as possible.Something that vehicles with big lifts fail at.

    Wayne

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