top ones the truck one the bottom ones the LR one.they are more or less interchangeable.
spigot Is the same from memory.
I'm at the same stage as Steve G is with my refurbishment & I notice from his pic of the rear seal, he has a different type of seal than what's in mine.
The question is my seal original?
I've attached a pic of Steve's with mine below it.
Also, is the spiggot bearing the same as an LT95?- it looks like it.
Thanks, David
top ones the truck one the bottom ones the LR one.they are more or less interchangeable.
spigot Is the same from memory.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
My crank seal is a NOK the same as the lower photo. From Isuzu truck parts.
'88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
'85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
'56 SI Ute Cab
My engine in the top photo is from a Stage1 Isuzu, so I'm guessing the difference its an early seal type.
I've just bought the larger 105mm internal diameter seal, and corresponding wear sleeve to go on the crank. The seal looks the same as yours, but a bigger internal diameter.
Steve
.......This isn't rocket science, you only have to go back a few months, or do a (god forbid) search. From Bush65 and Brian, and numerous other threads and posts:
Here are seal numbers as posted in another thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearman
I will give you the numbers for both seal types
1.The number for the original one is an Isuzu number (also in LR's part numbers) 1096254020
2. The new type one is BYG2767 (LR number) Much better seal I am told but I havent fitted one yet......Apparently this is made by SKF. These are the numbers I was given to reference the SKF one, 200610-0218-03-03 #550651. You will either need 2 pieces of pipe ( 1 X 75mm and 1 X100mm) to fit it or the proper fitting tool.......... Brian
I put one of the SKF seals in my 4BD1T while it was out.
They are a Chicago Rawhide seal (the company was bought by SKF) and also have a CH???? number clearly shown on the seal, but I couldn't find anything in either CH or SKF catalogues.
Edit: Bearman said You will either need 2 pieces of pipe ( 1 X 75mm and 1 X100mm) ... There is a mistake there - 75mm is incorrect.
The seal has a sleeve on the inside that is not separable from the seal. It is necessary to have 2 pieces of pipe, one to fit the inner sleeve onto the crank (100mm od crank), and another to fit the seal into the housing (125 id housing from memory). They don't need to be used simultaneously - just fit the sleeve a little, then the seal a little, repeating until seal and sleeve are in place.
I have another number (may be military number) for this seal assembly NSN: 5330-66-149-1912
In fact you started the above thread Deejay, are you still going or is it another leak?
"Quote"
In fact you started the above thread Deejay, are you still going or is it another leak?
I thought my project County had sprung a leak, but it was oil from the gearbox front bearing collapse. The oil leak from the Blue Isuzu - which prompted the original post- is continuing, so I thought I might be buying two seals.
I did do a search & I got to thestage as I had about 5 part numbers half of which were crossed out as later threads said they were wrong- or unknown by the dealers.
I'll try SKF for part no 200610-0218-03-03 #550651 - it's gotta be cheaper than the $170 I read for the LR part.
Thanks,
David
Dont waste your time trying to get the seal from SKF. I spent a bit of time chasing it with them, and they dont know anything about it. Those numbers are meaningless to them and the best explanation I could get was that it was probably a special that was made by Chicago Rawhide for OEM use.
If your crank is a bit worn in the seal area, the cheapest way out of it that I found was the genuine isuzu wear sleeve and 105mm seal. I've posted some photos of the boxes/part numbers in my conversion thread. Cost about $140 (the wear sleeve was the dearest bit).
Steve
Zenith in Brisbane is your friend, give them a call for the later seal, it's not cheap, but I wouldn't quibble if it works! Afterall, they're a fair bit of work to replace from scratch. Mines been good for three years.
I purchased my rear main seal from Multispares, there being a branch in Dandenong and Werribee. They supplied the seal the same as the lower pic in Deejay's post. I ordered the seal to suit the truck motor, it cost about $30!
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