Thread: Super CT26

I wouldn't bother frigging around welding a plug into the manifold. Just drill and tap it as Dougal said earlier.

So far it looks like something from an episode of scrapheap challenge (you said not to be nice ).
Seriously though, if you're planning on making a custom manifold down the track a bit, then there's not much point spending endless hours on making perfect dump pipes etc if its likely to all change - so I reckon you're going about it the right way - get it going reasonably and then work out where it needs improving.

Why cant the compressor outlet be rotated? Apart from having to sort out a bracket for the wastegate - it looks just like any other compressor housing that just has a big circlip holding it in place. Do you mean its pinned/doweled in some way?

Steve

Take the compressor cover off and look for pins stopping it rotating. Or just ask Graeme.

Just drill and tap the manifold, I used 1/4 BSPT (aka Rc) and there was plenty of meat for that.

havent had a look at why it cant be rotated, cause when i was speaking to graeme he asked which i wanted the orientation as it couldn't be rotated, so i haven't thought further about it. the probe is too long to drill and tap to put in, it will either go towards one side of the pulse? in the manifold or hit it, so i have machined a little flat spot on the side then will drill a little started hole and push a bung in and weld the sucker, it should hold, this way it will sit in the middle of the outlet flange to the turbo.

didnt get too much done again today (i'm a little slow as i'm making it up as i go and its my first crack at doing anything like this). the turbo didn't come with a flange for the oil feed and dump and no thread in the oil feed so had to make up a little flange tap a thread for a banjo and braise a drain line in, i blocked off the water lines as graeme syas diesels don't get hot enough to warrant water cooling - but i will plumb the water lines in at a later stage. lots of mucking about, cut the radiator mounts off and welded them back 40mm (i now have 50mm radiator to fan, and 30mm radiator to i/c, and nearly finished the intercooler mounts. it would sit behind a normal front grille now not just the aircon one which sits out further so trow finish the intercooler mounts redo the radiator top mounts put the egt in the manifold, put manifold back on, turbo, and hopefully start plumbing all the air lines....

radiator moved back, yes i have another one to go in, this one is shagged


i/c in place, mounted it on pin shock bushes (neoprene?) and washers bolts in



clearence between the i/c, radiator and fan

Originally Posted by steveG

I wouldn't bother frigging around welding a plug into the manifold. Just drill and tap it as Dougal said earlier.

So far it looks like something from an episode of scrapheap challenge (you said not to be nice ).
Seriously though, if you're planning on making a custom manifold down the track a bit, then there's not much point spending endless hours on making perfect dump pipes etc if its likely to all change - so I reckon you're going about it the right way - get it going reasonably and then work out where it needs improving.

Why cant the compressor outlet be rotated? Apart from having to sort out a bracket for the wastegate - it looks just like any other compressor housing that just has a big circlip holding it in place. Do you mean its pinned/doweled in some way?

Steve

haha funny you say that steve as that pretty much exactly it! i walk around my mates yard till i can find something i can use/adapt then bingo i'm on again, and just keep rolling like that. i only want to spend minimal money on this as the turbo nearly cost me as much as the car and i don't know how long the motor, etc will live for. at the end of the day everything will be done right, but it maybe wont look a million dollars, if u know what i mean.

got the egt probe in today, finished the radiator mounts, naerly the i/c mounts, and started some mock plumbing











and my mate parking one of his LJ's

Great write up thus far Def-90! Especially given that I'm about to embark on i/c fitment.

Now with regards to moving the radiator back 40mm...

I have heard that engine fans can undergo significant deformation/ bending, when pushing water (i.e. during deep water crossings), such that the fins can strike the radiator...

With that, what is the minimum separation distance required between the radiator and the fan (specifically 4bd1) to ensure that this doesn't happen???

Hope I haven't deviated too far from the original topic

Thanks

Not sure, i've still got 50mm so i'm hoping that will enough, they do flex a fair bit nit sure hiw much, if they hit i'll have to swap to thermos that i can switch off when needed

ok so not much more, spent a few hrs on the baboon today till i got to thirsty and had to go to the pub

heat wrapped the dump pipe, and got the aluminum lines flared on the ends for the clamps, put them in and proper silicone hoses, and dummied up part of the turbo aircleaner lines, oil lines on



put some rubber tubing around where i massacred the holes



removed the cast 90 bend and cut and shut the steel intake pipe to meet the i/c angle a little better



not long now!!



just air intake, run egt, boost, tacho and oil preeure gauges, redo the bonnet closing hinge thinging, remount p/s bottle, vacuum lines, massage the bonnet, flip the air cleaner drain, a few other bits then presto i'll give her a run around the paddock!!!!!!!!!