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Thread: 4bd1 front crank seal replacement

  1. 14th April 2012, 02:41 PM #11
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    Heated it until it smoked with no joy, but die grinder and cold chisel did the trick.
    Even after one half of the nut was removed I still had to hit the other half pretty solidly with a mash hammer and chisel to get it off.

    Thankfully the harmonic balancer came off pretty easily.

    Steve
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  2. 16th April 2012, 09:16 PM #12
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    FWIW - a genuine Isuzu replacement nut was only $12.70, and readily available.
    The same nut is also used on the truck pitman arms.

    Steve
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  3. 24th April 2012, 10:43 PM #13
    86 shed
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    Has anyone on this forum experience with Torque Multipliers? This seems like a good place to ask the question. Thanks. Michael.
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  4. 24th April 2012, 10:57 PM #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveG View Post
    FWIW - a genuine Isuzu replacement nut was only $12.70, and readily available.
    The same nut is also used on the truck pitman arms.

    Steve
    Yes, the nut is cheap. The spacer/washer is the expensive part!!!
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  5. 4th January 2016, 05:35 PM #15
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    Tackling this path the moment, looks like mine is stuck like yours Steve! Engines on the engine stand to make thing harder
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  6. 4th January 2016, 07:22 PM #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vern View Post
    Tackling this path the moment, looks like mine is stuck like yours Steve! Engines on the engine stand to make thing harder
    Bugger...
    Easier to attack it with the die grinder while its on the stand anyway. Saves having to pull the radiator out

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive
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  7. 4th January 2016, 08:48 PM #17
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    Here's mine after a small encounter with the blue/white striped apron
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1451904500.359910.jpg

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive
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  8. 5th January 2016, 03:14 PM #18
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    Would an impact gun ever help with something like this? Perhaps not when it's THAT seized, but I was wondering why it's never mentioned for any crank nut. Never mentioned for a TDI either... Surely enough room for an impact gun with the radiator removed?
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6
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  9. 5th January 2016, 04:16 PM #19
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    4bd1 front crank seal replacement

    I used an impact gun to do the extra 90deg?? on my 300tdi after the initial torque. It wouldn't touch it as far as undoing went though.

    I'm sure a decent one would be worth a go. One of those big 300ft/lb++ jobbies.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive
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  10. 5th January 2016, 05:27 PM #20
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    most people dont carry 3/4 drive impact guns?

    I do but I figure its a little unfair for me to give instructions or descriptions like "with your rattle gun" as most people are using stock supercheap or similar 1/2 inch drive rattle guns.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

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