c.h.i.e.f 's 110 Isuzu county

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Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f

But the bolt holes have the same pcd as the 4bd1 ? (bolts to the crank) a larger clutch will be good but the main concern would be the outside diameter as you said.
Crap don't mention mxa i am avoiding looking at it at the moment :D
If the larger flywheel fits and has a 325mm pressure plate it will depend what diameter clutch plate can be found to suit the mxa-6r input shaft I would suspect ?

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PCD the same yes, bolts straight up.

325mm clutch is overkill, unless you plan to tow 20 ton in low range up sides of mountains....

The standard N/A 275mm is fine for general use. I found out today that Excedy do a 'button' clutch for the 275mm. This means that the clutch is pretty much either fully on, or fully off with a stronger apply force. Cltuch pedal pressure shouldn't be any heavier, but it means no riding of the clutch posible if that's something you do or want in a clutch.

If you really want bigger, just go the standard 300mm 4BD1T.

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Originally Posted by Bush65

The input shaft is 21 spline, 29mm dia. I used an Exedy clutch disc ISD134
The complete Exedy clutch kit is ISK6533, and throwout bearing is 2226. That is the Isuzu 300mm clutch and the landie flywhell would need to be modified.

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This is the same input shaft of the later model MSA's in which you can use the 300mm 4BD1T clutch (as John mentions) or the 275mm N/A one which will bolt straight up to your flywheel. FAI: Older MSA's have a 24 spline, 25.5mm

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Originally Posted by Bush65

Nothing wrong with the shaft that grubb supplies, just that I seem to remember he chose a length that suited the stock position of the LT230 and the MSA-5 gearbox. As your gearbox is longer, the above might be made shorter, but if the LT230 has to go back anyway, perhaps a little more with with grubbs shaft is more convenient. I don't have enough info to know what the relative lengths would be.

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My shaft would put your transfer case mounting face 65mm behind the face of the drive flange. Although if the back of the MXA output shaft is the same as an MSA, there is a spacer (12mm) and speedo gear (12mm) which could both be removed, and you could safely trim about 15mm of the drive flange (where the seal runs) to shorten that length by 39mm to 26mm.

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Originally Posted by Bush65

something like grubbs kit would have been cheaper and easier than what I have done now.

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Yeah where was that bloke when I needed to upgrade my box. Would of been a lot cheaper an easier for me too :(

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Originally Posted by the_grubb

This is the same input shaft of the later model MSA's in which you can use the 300mm 4BD1T clutch (as John mentions) or the 275mm N/A one which will bolt straight up to your flywheel. FAI: Older MSA's have a 24 spline, 25.5mm

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The Isuzu clutch plate for the later large spline and 275mm OD is from a 4BE1 engine. This is what I am using.

Even when overfuelled (I currently run 24psi boost and 1 full turn in from where it once was) it has never slipped. But I don't know if my pressure plate (factory Isuzu, diaphragm type) was "reset" to higher clamping pressure. It is a possibility, the guy who installed my engine liked to mess with everything.

That is correct about the button clutch it also has 30% more clamping pressure but I'm not to sure how good a button clutch will be in the bush ?? They are also in development of a even stronger one to suit this application but is not released yet by exedy .... I am currently running a 275mm clutch and same as dougal have not had any problems (33's and plenty of torque) mind you it cost a small fortune and unfortunately is suited to the lt85 :( the only reasoning why I would have a 325mm clutch is because I may end up going to the larger flywheel..

mxa-6r gearbox measurements (sorry about the terrible lines)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/05/292.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/05/293.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/05/294.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/05/295.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/05/296.jpg

Rear of oil cooler etc etc

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/05/366.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/05/367.jpg
Im asuming that the threaded hole above the filter can be used as an oil feed ?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/05/368.jpg
This is my new non winged sump Part Number 8-94149-247 . This is with 7L of water in it to see where the oil level would be! I was going to put an upward facing 90* elbow on lefthand side for turbo oil drain however I then wondered what if I am offroading and I place lefthand side lower than the right all the oil would cover the oil drain and then stop the flow of oil from turbo but I'm not sure as when motor is running there would be considerably less oil than shown sitting in the sump so it may be fine to drain back there ??? Maybe positioning the drain up on the shallow pan part may help ? I'm lost for ideas I may end up running with my previous drain position in the block breather plate.

If you have the sump off, just drill the block in a roughly similar position to the factory T motors.

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Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f

Rear of oil cooler etc etc

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/05/366.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/05/367.jpg
Im asuming that the threaded hole above the filter can be used as an oil feed ?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/05/368.jpg
This is my new non winged sump Part Number 8-94149-247 . This is with 7L of water in it to see where the oil level would be! I was going to put an upward facing 90* elbow on lefthand side for turbo oil drain however I then wondered what if I am offroading and I place lefthand side lower than the right all the oil would cover the oil drain and then stop the flow of oil from turbo but I'm not sure as when motor is running there would be considerably less oil than shown sitting in the sump so it may be fine to drain back there ??? Maybe positioning the drain up on the shallow pan part may help ? I'm lost for ideas I may end up running with my previous drain position in the block breather plate.

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With my 4BD1T, the threaded hole on the oil filter housing is used as the oil feed to the injection pump and automatic timing advance. I see in you pic of the rear of the oil cooler, the lube line to the injector pump goes from one of the drillings into the main oil gallery. Pretty much giving the same results IMHO, except oil from main gallery has passed through the cooler, so dropped a little pressure and some temp, neither of which I doubt are significant.

With my 4BD1T the oil feed to the turbo came from the top end of the oil pipe between filter housing and oil cooler.

You do not want the drain from the turbo to ever be below the oil level in sump.

I took my turbo oil feed from that hole in the filter housing as it was easier than drilling/tapping holes etc in the upper spacer block.

In regard to your oil level, what I did with mine was to put 8L of oil in the dry motor (ie new filters and new sump fitted), then ran it for a bit and shut down.
After letting settle for a few mins, I marked the level on the dipstick. Its approx 10mm above the NA winged sump level.

Steve