Thread: Ran fine, then rough, now won't start..

Yeah, hope that a mechanic spots the early signs of it in the filters and sedimentros when they do a service, pretty much the same as everyone else.

We have a dosing agent available in system (from memory we're ment to dose the tank evert alt major)

Hey,

Is it going yet?

It might sound silly but first things first,

1. Add 20l of fuel
2. Bleed via the hand pump
3. If it bleeds fine you have enough fuel to run.

If it then runs and stops after bleeding then most likely it's either air or lift pump related. Remember there are two pumping elements in the lift pump assy'. The hand primer and the lift pump component. Just because the primer works dosen't mean the lift pump is good ( If you suspect the pump, operate the hand primer whilst the engine is running to confirm )

Remember the bypass banjo in the head of the fuel filter assy'. If you have had a heavily soiled filter in the past there maybe a chance that it is stuck open. Normally by the same rubbish that blocked the filter in the first place. This will often drop primary circuit pressure to near nil. It should still idle however.

Winter blend fuels (Diesel) in most Alpine areas are delivered during the winter months and often not advertised. It does get cold in Canberra, cold enough to justify a winter blend. Remember, there have been numerous common rail pump failures attributed to Winter blend diesel (lubrisity problems). I try to avoid it and even when camping in the snow have not had diesel fuel problems, yet!

Keep the pump strainer, especially if you use Jerry's. Very surprising how much rubbish accrues in strainers of Army land rovers. Near always attributed to paint from the bottom of Jerry cans. Not a problem for the RAAF, they never go field (cheap dig at Blacknight!)


Cheers, Tristan

Thanks everyone. It's not back together yet to test...

Does the spring go above or below the filter in the main filter that is attached to the inlet?

Originally Posted by flagg

Thanks everyone. It's not back together yet to test...

Does the spring go above or below the filter in the main filter that is attached to the inlet?

I take it you mean the cartridge filter attached to the inlet manifold?

I ditched mine a long time ago for a spin-on, but from memory the housing should go over the bolt, then the spring, then the base washer, then the filter. The purpose of the spring is to keep the cartridge element pushed hard against the top and bottom seats.

I'm not sure if it's a good idea or not but I kept the original filter and put a cav292 before it...

Originally Posted by isuzurover

I take it you mean the cartridge filter attached to the inlet manifold?

I ditched mine a long time ago for a spin-on, but from memory the housing should go over the bolt, then the spring, then the base washer, then the filter. The purpose of the spring is to keep the cartridge element pushed hard against the top and bottom seats.

Thanks. What is required to switch to the spin-on?

Originally Posted by flagg

Thanks. What is required to switch to the spin-on?

In my case brakets to hold the housing then plug fuel hose to it..

Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f

In my case brakets to hold the housing then plug fuel hose to it..

What he said. You basically need to unbolt the whole filter assembly from the manifold and replace it with a spin-on assembly from a wrecker. Best to get the lines as well as there are sometimes differences.