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Thread: Ran fine, then rough, now won't start..

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRanged View Post
    Mate pull it out and leave it out. We did this and replaced it with a filter /seperator which is mounted in an "easy" to get place in the engine bay.

    Justin
    Personally never had a problem with mine however I did contemplate an electric pump/separator at one stage to supply the lift pump...any pics of yours Justin ? (separator)

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRanged View Post
    Mate pull it out and leave it out. We did this and replaced it with a filter /seperator which is mounted in an "easy" to get place in the engine bay.

    Justin
    NO. Bad man, you must now hand over all your diesels and go play with lpg converted petrol engines for the rest of your life.

    DO NOT Eliminate this filter, doing so exposes the seals on your lift pump to early demise if you get any crud coming up past the sedimentor and without the lift pump working you are essentially screwed.

    you can completely dismantle the fuel sedimentor and I suggest you do.

    heres what you're looking for
    Diesel Snot, Here it is IN person.

    and yes, draining the sedimentor it will drain a fairly clean fuel out that will leave you with no suspicion of contamination.

    pull all the lines down then blow them all out
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #13
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    I find it hard to believe that removing a plastic cylinder with 0.5mm holes and fitting a very small micron paper element filter in line BEFORE the lift pump is Bad!!!!! The original plastic tube would only remove large objects anyway. But thinking about it now, it wouldn't do any harm to put it back in so it can work with my other filter. I see your point mate!!

    Justin

  4. #14
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    Ok.. all filters clean. There was a bit of crap in the sediment bowl but not much.

    No signs of snot or other gunk..

    also.. were does the spring on the top filter go? It surprised me when i took it apart and I didn't catch where it came from..
    Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
    Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)

  5. #15
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    Dranged, are you talking about using one of those little $3.50 disposable ryco in-line fuel filters? if so, then I've heard and seen this done before, but most of those filters are intended for petrol and thus restrict the flow of diesel... or so I'm told?

    and lastly... Dave, what's the collective wisdom of the ADF on "winterising" the 4bd1's fuel source? do you have a standard practice?

  6. #16
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    No mate not a little Ryco, it's a large Fleetguard filter, separator

    Justin

  7. #17
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    I think what blknight is suggesting is that the purpose of the gauze filter being where it is is so that it is as close to the lift pump element as possible to just make sure that nothing gets in...the external filter may work as good or better than the gauze one but has the possibility of foreign body's entering the line due to more connections...the moral of the story is ....is it going Flagg???
    Last edited by c.h.i.e.f; 29th August 2012 at 04:59 PM. Reason: Lift pumps are the weak link on any inline IP from my experience

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by EchiDna View Post
    Dranged, are you talking about using one of those little $3.50 disposable ryco in-line fuel filters? if so, then I've heard and seen this done before, but most of those filters are intended for petrol and thus restrict the flow of diesel... or so I'm told?

    and lastly... Dave, what's the collective wisdom of the ADF on "winterising" the 4bd1's fuel source? do you have a standard practice?
    winter? whats that? we dont have a winter here thats cold enough to upset the suzi.

    ADF fuels are sourced from about the same kind of place as normal servos so places that need winter diesel have it on had as/when needed.

    I have my own thoughts on what you do to winterise the 4bd1 but its only really applicable if your doing long stops and not garaging or taking other precautions.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f View Post
    I think what blknight is suggesting is that the purpose of the gauze filter being where it is is so that it is as close to the lift pump element as possible to just make sure that nothing gets in...the external filter may work as good or better than the gauze one but has the possibility of foreign body's entering the line due to more connections...the moral of the story is ....is it going Flagg???
    its primary job is to stop the big bits, like delaminated hose, filter lining or anything else that might come up.

    If your lift pump stops functioning, youve had it
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #20
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    Bearman is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by flagg View Post
    Hi Guys,

    After sitting for a year while I've been replacing the firewall and installing a new loom, yesterday I got to the great moment when I was able to start it for the first time.

    It turned over once, then launched into life and ran fine.

    Since then, I tidied up some of the engine loom, and started it a few times to make sure it was all still OK - it started and ran fine.

    This afternoon I bled the clutch.. and when I started it to see if I had done it OK it started to run rough... like it was missing on a cylinder. Right away I turned it off and look for anything obvious.. nothing.. started it again, and it ran REALLY rough.. like it was on a single cylinder. it ran for 3-4 seconds before I turned it off.

    I cracked the nut on the first injector and diesel flows with no bubbles (without me doing anything else) there is 1/4 of a tank of diesel.

    Not really sure where to go from here.. I can't think of anything I might have done.. the air filter is clean and free from obstruction.

    It wont start at all now.

    Anyone have any ideas?


    Hi Flagg,
    What you describe sounds like air in the fuel line or fuel starvation - all the classic signs like running rough etc then won't start. I would be checking all the lines back to the tank especially where the firewall goes over them. You may have possibly squashed or punctured the plastic line when changing the firewall. If they are all ok then look at the lift pump - it may have gone on hols with the time it was standing.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

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