double off set ring spanner up behind the clutch pedal onto the bottom bolt, clutch pedal needs to be at about 1/3 travel.
Can anyone tell me the secret in removing the clutch master cylinder from a 110 County-Isuzu. I can't see or feel any way of getting a spanner or socket on the bottom bolt holding the master cylinder to the pedal box. The factory workshop manual simply says "Remove the master cylinder from the vehicle". No mention of how!!!!
URSUSMAJOR
double off set ring spanner up behind the clutch pedal onto the bottom bolt, clutch pedal needs to be at about 1/3 travel.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I hope it is an imperial bolt then. I don't have metric double offset rings only r/oe.
URSUSMAJOR
Brian, we replace many of these, the clutch pedal box needs to come out, then it is a 5 minute job to replace the cylinder on the bench, then refit the pedal box, bleed and all is well. At least in a County there is no A/C hanging down under the dash...
JC
thanks, guys. I will give it a try in the morning.
Numerous people in Lode Lane Solihull would have had burning ears this morning whilst I was trying to access that bolt.
URSUSMAJOR
Well, it's off with pedal box complete and the pommy ears would still be burning. Eight bolts, the fluid pipe, remove air intake tract, a vacuum hose, the pedal rubber to gain the last poofteenth of clearance, and some cable ties securing (out of sight) the previous owners home wiring job to the pedal box. I think I will drill and tap the SAE flange on the master cylinder so the bolts can be accessed readily in future. I first tried Dave's recommendation of a ring spanner up into the pedal box. Would have been fine if the inaccessible nut on the other end didn't turn. Hence the idea of drilling and tapping the flange.
URSUSMAJOR
I have done it a few times and never removed the pedal box. I just manage to get at the bolts/nut using 1/4 drive sockets and a couple of cut down ring spanners.
I'll be removing mine shortly, as the loud squeak every time I push the pedal just won't go away. Actually, it's two loud squeeks - one for in and one for out. No amount of lube and pumped in grease even vaguely decreases it, so the whole lot is coming out. I'm now curious to see whether I can get at the clutch master cyclinder easily or not. I won't waste much time on it, but I'll see how it goes.
Also replacing the brake pedal box, slightly re-positioning the air filter, re-routing some wires and the speedo cable, fitting new heater control cables and doing sundry other shake-down stuff at the same time.
I always remove the pedal box - the secret is to rotate it 90 degrees as you lift it.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! | 
    Search All the Web! | 
  
|---|
| 
 | 
 | 
Bookmarks