Thread: 4bd1 to 4bd1t

Have made a decision to go with the transplant. Sounds like that has the most advantages. Seems like I picked up the motor for a song (see if it turns out that way hahaha) and the turbo add would end up being of equal cost. Truck I'm the shop with suspected broken front axel, so have decides to upgrade front and rear to Maxxis heavy duty axels to cope with the increases power trough the drive train. Can anyone suggest any other mods to drive line which may help reduce breakdowns in the future? Will probably run 33's or maybe 35's if I can make em fit.

For all your diff upgrades, just got to ashcrofts.

Just making sure you know, but this goal:

Originally Posted by obelixxx01

Can anyone suggest any other mods to drive line which may help reduce breakdowns in the future?

Is made harder by this goal:

Originally Posted by obelixxx01

Will probably run 33's or maybe 35's if I can make em fit.

Hi, I have been doing a lot of reading about these engines too. This is what I have gathered so far;

The truck flywheel will not work with the LR flywheel housing and starter. If you keep the LR gearbox you will have to use your existing flywheel which is not as heavy as the turbo one. The turbo engine will have greater torque pulses each time a cylinder fires and without a heavier flywheel these will increase wear on gearboxes, etc.

Plenty of people have fitted turbos and kept the LR flywheel and gearboxes, some report no problems, others say they destroy gearboxes. My guess is this has a lot to do with other factors like boost pressure, driving style, vehicle weight and bigger tyres.

There is an option to use the truck flywheel, housings and 5 speed gearbox mated to a LR transfer case. Have a read of the (long) thread "Isuzu MSA Gearbox to LT230", Sheldon (the_grubb) is developing a kit to make this a bolt in conversion. There is another option that keeps the truck flywheel housing and starter with the LR gearbox, but this has clearance issues with the chassis.

As Dougal is saying, if you fit bigger tyres, you increase the stress on all of the drive line components. Looking through these forums you will find a good number of threads about upgrading gearboxes, front diffs, and half shafts. These seem to be the first things to fail when people run bigger tyres and stronger engines.

How much drive line you will need to upgrade to run 33" or 35" tyres will depend on how heavy you travel and how sympathetic a driver you are. You may get away without upgrading anything if you keep the weight under 2500kg and are the type of driver who walks it through in low range. If you are a touring type who loads to 3500kg and use a bit of momentum to carry you through a soft patch, you may want to start reading and saving.

Hope this helps, looking forward to a build thread with lots of photos (hint, hint).

Cheers

Dan

My 4BD1T factory turbo truck engine flywheel is lighter than my 2.2 non turbo diesel flywheel.
So I don't see the turbo truck flywheel as solving any drive-train beat-down problems. I do plan on an inertia ring to help, but I need to finish the current job first.

That's interesting to know, do you mean a 2.25 litre LR diesel engine or something else?

If anyone has info on the heaviest flywheel that will fit the truck housing I would love to know.

Dan

Originally Posted by zkdaz

That's interesting to know, do you mean a 2.25 litre LR diesel engine or something else?

If anyone has info on the heaviest flywheel that will fit the truck housing I would love to know.

Dan

The 2.2 is completely unrelated to landrover.
There isn't much space in the bellhousing for a bigger flywheel, the industrial ones are definitely too deep. But there is enough room for some improvement.

I still have a truck flywheel, running inside a Land Rover bellhousing/flywheel cover assembly. I used a Toyota 300mm outside diameter clutch plate with a Range Rover 10 spline centre welded in. You have to be careful to position the plate centre so it clears the spigot bush housing. The pressure plate is an Isuzu truck part.