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Thread: 4bd1 to 4bd1t

  1. #31
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    You will want at leaset 20psi wastegate... Less than that and you will be missing out
    Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
    Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)

  2. #32
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    But the one you want on ebay is this:

    Kinugawa Turbocharger TD04HL 19T T25 Flange 6cm OIL Cooled 250 280HP | eBay

    Key specs are:
    TD04HL-19T-T25.
    Oil cooled only.
    6cm2 turbine housing.
    Internal WG.

    I have ordered one like this last week exept it is the oil/water cooled model.
    Is this going to be a problem for me or should I return it and get the oil cooled only unit?
    From other posts I understand I can just not hook up any water lines to it, is this right?

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Albert View Post
    But the one you want on ebay is this:

    Kinugawa Turbocharger TD04HL 19T T25 Flange 6cm OIL Cooled 250 280HP | eBay

    Key specs are:
    TD04HL-19T-T25.
    Oil cooled only.
    6cm2 turbine housing.
    Internal WG.

    I have ordered one like this last week exept it is the oil/water cooled model.
    Is this going to be a problem for me or should I return it and get the oil cooled only unit?
    From other posts I understand I can just not hook up any water lines to it, is this right?
    2 examples of members with water cooled turbos but no water connected:

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...ml#post1628516

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...ml#post1993964

    Doesn't appear to be a problem.
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  4. #34
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    I don't have the water jacket connected... But I also have no idea what im doing :-p. Word is that it is unnecessary on diesels so long as you don't shutdown with EGTs above 200 - which shouldn't be a problem.



    If you do want to use the jacket, then make sure you have a bleed valve or you will get airlocks. Then again, if you want a heater that works you want a bleed valve anyway for the same reason. I made one up that attaches to the heater pipe outlet as that is the highest part of my cooling system. Works a treat.
    Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
    Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)

  5. #35
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    bolt or nuts?

    Hey guys can anyone confirm where the stock exhaust manifold held on by bolt or studs and nuts?

    I just received my turbo/manifold adaptor from ebay today and eager to get cracking!

    Its a cast piece so i'll get onto with the dremel, give it a good sanding and make it nice and smooth, just like i did with the turbo exhaust side and the manifold (where i could reach anyway).

    Yey Its TURBO TIME!

  6. #36
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    It wasn't that long ago I removed mine and TBH I can't remember. I think it was bolts. However, you should just go for new bolts anyway. M8 is the size. Length depends on the manifold you're using.
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  7. #37
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    When I got mine, it was both. I think there were two studs that were useful for positioning it and bolts for the rest. I replaced with all bolts.
    Hercules: 1986 110 Isuzu 3.9 (4BD1-T)
    Brutus: 1969 109 ExMil 2a FFT (loved and lost)

  8. #38
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    I used Class 12.9 socket head cap screws (and washers) to hold my turbo manifold on. >150k km later and all is still fine (same goes for the water cooled turbo with no water pipes connected).

  9. #39
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    ^^^ Same here, except mine has only done 45K kms

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  10. #40
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    I only used 8.8 hex head bolts with washers. So far so good after 3kms.
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

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