change the oil first.....pretty sure the ARMY still use engine oil in the gearbox
just remeber you gearbox is taper roller bearing so a bit different to the civvy version
my five speed out of a 300tdi was $2500 exchange
Hi everyone, so after finally getting rego on the soft-top got to take it for a decent drive and ran into some problems with the gearbox. I cant downshift at all and gearbox is very sticky at first i thought the stickiness was just because it was a bit rough and didn't really worry me but not being able to downshift does i would assume from the feel its probably the synchro's, i was going to investigate oil but would assume the army would be using correct oil. Ive looked around and realised how hard it is to find a LT95, so i rang a few places to get some prices of rebuild, most are giving me a call back but British4x4 at windsor gardens threw a $6000-7000 at me just to rebuild the boxconsidering that's more than i payed for the vehicle i found it a little silly especially when he didn't even ask what kind of vehicle or any details at all is this just because he didn't wont to do it or ? What would be your guys estimate on a price to have rebuild done? Next is it going to be cheaper and easier to do a conversion, if so what would be recommended and details, cost ect... Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance
![]()
change the oil first.....pretty sure the ARMY still use engine oil in the gearbox
just remeber you gearbox is taper roller bearing so a bit different to the civvy version
my five speed out of a 300tdi was $2500 exchange
Thanks yeah I'm going to go throw some 20w50 in it on Wednesday just to be sure can anyone recommend a brand it likes?, also if i can i would like to keep the LT95 as from what Ive read its quite a nice strong box,but if i have to go down conversion route so be it...
it likes 15/40wt
Rx super.
Make sure the clutch isnt dragging first.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Lighter than that even,
so this changing down, yoiu cant becouse the stick will not move or it curunches gears when you do.
dubbling the cluch makes a difrence or not??
taper roller ( army style) it may or may not be, but is beside the point becouse it would have no efect.
or have you just never driven a 50 year old desined GBox.
there is a place in sydney that will rebuld a 95 for 900 buck but you need to get it there.
hmm ok i seem to be finding a lot of conflicting info on oil can someone just clarify for me...
cant downshift at all even with double clutching and it will come out of gear but wont go into lower gear but no crunching and i don't think its just me because the hardtop seems to be fine, I mean i can manage my 1951 dodge truck so i think id be able to handle a land rover... I hope anyway
wow 900 sounds a lot more appealing im assuming about $500 for freight which is still a lot better than $6000-7000
sounds like clutch drag to me.
if your double declutching correctly it should go into gear regardless of how good or bad the syncros are. (or if the clutch is dragging)
if it goes up the gears ok then its not the syncros and its not the bearings, most likely its going to be clutch drag thats keeping the shafts turning at the wrong speeds and usually it will always be because the input side is always turning too slowly for the road speed for the gear you're trying to pick.
try this.
slow down an ass load more before you try to down shift... Im talking about 35kph to come out of 4th about 15kph to come out of 3rd and about 5 to come out of second.
give it a little blip (you want to hit about 1500rpm) and then complete the gear change. If that makes it any better then its the clutch dragging.
you might find someone has put the heavy duty clutch plate in behind the light duty pressure plate.
Id also suggest checking the clutch free play and pedal height settings.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
$900 sounds too cheap to me. You'd be lucky buy decent bearings synchros and gaskets etc for that let alone any labour cost.
Steve
1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
1988 120 with rust and potential
1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive
+1 on that!
$900 buys an aftermarket rebuild kit. That's non Timken bearings, aftermarket gasket kit with gaskets that are too thick and synchros which are definitely non-genuine.
Others here on this forum rebuild the LT95 to a high standard, though for considerably more.
Perhaps (with all due respect) you get what you pay for in this instance?
Cheers,
Richard
Castrol Syntrans makes a world of difference. Usually got to be ordered in.
URSUSMAJOR
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! | 
    Search All the Web! | 
  
|---|
| 
 | 
 | 
Bookmarks