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Thread: engine oil

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by rust View Post
    That statement adds another interesting dimension... So with a VMX80 or Syntrans would you also subscribe to Mark2's idea of using a 15/40 in the Transfer Case?

    And if so, why would a 15/40 be optimal in a TC situation?
    Bush65 has a good post here which sums up the situation:
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...-transfer.html

    The same goes for the t-case. An gear oil of appropriate viscosity will protect your expensive taper roller t-case better than engine oil. That said, many of the syntrans/vmx80 type fluids may be too low a viscosity for the t-case so it may leak. However there will be other options.

  2. #22
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    It seems the general out-take go something like this?

    • 15w40's like RX Super are adequate and are not likely to kill your Perentie anytime soon
    • HPR30 has worked quite successfully for some owners
    • GX-4's like Manual VMX 80 or Syntrans are more optimal according to some owners but elevated leaking due to viscosity has been noted in one test case
    • Diff and Axle oils should NOT be used under any LT95 GB or TC circumstances

  3. #23
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    Thanks for the summary
    Great!!
    Phil
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

  4. #24
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    Thumbs up Engine oil Penrite

    Guys I got a bit lost there i though we were talking engine oil.
    I have been using Penrite HPR-50 and HPR diesel,( I think its a 15-50 as well).

    I only had two cars in the last 27 years, Volvo 265 GLE, ( comfortable, complicated,fast & mechanics hated them) and Landrover defender.

    A german/aussie mechanic told me to only use HPR 50 in the V6 volvo he said anything else you're asking for trouble, it's very hot running engine that thins the oil out and bakes it in the OH camshaft lube galleries. he pointed out three volvo V6s in his workdshop waiting for rebuild due to jammed camshaft tensioner due to baked oil. My own car you could hear the difference when the engine was hot, you could not hear the valve gear when I used Penrite. When I checked on the cylinder heads, cam chain galleries they were spotlessly clean with no sigh of baked oil etc.

    On my landrover using the common 15-40 oils after a long slog up a mountain in low range or heavy sand the oil pressure would be very low. With penrite i still would have 10 psi at idle compared to five psi with the others. I never tried synthetic because i'm too stingy. But for conventional engine oils I don't think you can beat Penrite. ( I'm not a penrite employee and haven't received any freebies etc )

  5. #25
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    Proposal

    How does this sound:

    Summer / Heavy loading:
    Engine: RX Super or HPR50
    GB/TC: HPR30

    Winter / Regular loading:
    Engine: HPR30 or HPR Diesel or RX Super
    GB/TC: HPR30

    If the above is not appropriate, please advise and I will modify / remove to avoid confusion.
    Last edited by DBT; 1st June 2014 at 11:49 AM. Reason: correction

  6. #26
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    oils

    DBT, Engine choices sounds all good. I'm not sure you need to change is with the seasons , does the hunter valley get very cold? HPR 15/50 would be fine all year around I think. at $7 per liter, superchaep auto, looks good value. But either way your Suzu will be lovin it

    Transfer case I don't know there's plenty of good advice there. cheers simmo

  7. #27
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    More for climate extreme regions i guess. I get sub zero (just) winter mornings a couple weeks of the year, up to mid-40s in high summer. I'm sure others have more extremes than this. Combine this with your engine's duty cycle to make the best choice.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by DBT View Post
    How does this sound:

    Summer / Heavy loading:
    Engine: RX Super or HPR50
    GB/TC: HPR30

    Winter / Regular loading:
    Engine: HPR30 or HPR Diesel or RX Super
    GB/TC: HPR30

    If the above is not appropriate, please advise and I will modify / remove to avoid confusion.
    HPR50 is not suitable for diesels and on top of that is far too viscous. RX Super is a 15W40, which is fine all year round - unless you are heading to the snow where you may want something thinner.

    I (and others) have posted the facts behind using an appropriate gearbox oil iin the gearbox and t-case. I would not use HPR30.

  9. #29
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    I have HPR30 in the GB and Transfer according to mechanic in the county, I don't have any issues with gear changes.

    I was going to use this in the Series when I go to replace the oils in that.

    I assume it's not suitable for use in the Engine and I should be looking for a Diesel oil if so whats the best choice there ?

    I had a search around for posts regarding using HPR30 that you are refering to(isuzurover) and couldn't see any reasons why it shouldn't be used only that there were more moden oils that might be better alternatives.

    I was keen to use all the same oils if I could for simplicities sake

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Distortion View Post
    ...

    I assume it's not suitable for use in the Engine and I should be looking for a Diesel oil if so whats the best choice there ?

    I had a search around for posts regarding using HPR30 that you are refering to(isuzurover) and couldn't see any reasons why it shouldn't be used only that there were more moden oils that might be better alternatives.

    ...
    I am not sure what you are asking? Why you shouldn't use HPR30 in a diesel or in a gearbox?

    HPR30 like most petrol engine oils is not rated for diesel applications - I believe it is due to detergents to keep the soot from agglomerating and sludging the engine - however Rick130 is the expert. In general though you can use diesel oil in a petrol but not the other way around.

    As for why not to use engine oil in a gearbox - Rick sums it up better than I can.
    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    ...

    Engine oil was originally specified as back in the day gear oils weren't available with the wide viscosity span that a 15W-40 engine oil posses.
    They just didn't flow well in a cold ambient.
    These days specific manual gearbox oils are available that don't don't corrode brass synchros, and give better shift performance with those same synchros as they use specific friction modifiers for synchro use while protecting gears and bearings better than an engine oil can.
    I understand the desire to keep common oils, but in reality you can't. The Diffs need EP80-90 or EP85-140 (salisbury in summer). You can't run engine oil in the diffs if you want them to last. I don't see why it is then so hard to run a different oil in the gearbox.

    You can however run exactly the same oils in each component of a series as you can in the corresponding component of a one-ten.

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