Thread: 4BD1T MSA5G Range Rover Classic Outcast Adaptor

Cheers

Another point of clarification for our many readers out there...

Interesting to see, when I took the v8 out and separated it from the gearbox, was the plastic engagement piece sitting behind the thrust bearing. The last time I saw this was on my old series 3(?).

The fork attaches to the plastic engagement component, which in turn drives the thrust bearing forward and at the same time providing a swivel join. This arrangement allows the bearing to maintain a parallel(?) attitude to the diaphragm.

The Isuzu on the other hand has no plastic bits. The swivel is provided by a retaining spring around a cast iron mount which is a bed for the bearing.

Do you know Vern if you have the LRover or the Isuzu mechanism?

Mines all isuzu

My lift pump is a little different to others I've seen on aulro. Filter is located to the side of, rather than underneath, the lift pump. Same 17mm bolt. Clean as a whistle.

Lift pump_side bolt.jpg

Lift pump_side bolt out showing filter.jpg

Lift pump_side bolt showing filter 2.jpg

Before and after shots of sand blasting. The 'after' looks like it has been painted with undercoat, but has not - just the matte finish of the blasting

Sand blasting_before.jpg

Sand blasting_after.jpg

The unit and hand piece. One of the things to watch is opening the tanks bottom valve to let grit into the line. Have it too open and the grit just forms sand dunes of 'Big Red' proportions. Open it slowly until the grit just starts to come through. Found it quite efficient, getting into every nook.

Sand blasting unit.jpg

Sand blasting_hand piece.jpg

Difference between scotch bright sanding disk (shiny) and sand blasting (matte). I used the sand blasting to get to the difficult inside. Used the scotch bright for the easy outside and a quick sand blast just for extra keying.

Sand blasting_versus scotch bright.jpg

Booth a must. Garnet grit here is about one dollar a kilo - sales guy reckons you can reuse it about 6 or 7 times. Wasted about 13 kg learning the set up with no booth. Protector brand mask after some years of storage in the heat. Second choice full face. Have a couple of self contained powered breathers for crop spraying and woodwork so may press them into use when next 'free range' spraying - other wise a booth!! Managed not to hit myself directly - a glancing stream was enough. Instructions say the hand piece pipe, quarter inch thick, will eventually erode away with the ceramic tip.
Sand blasting_temporary booth.jpg

Sand blasting_grit everywhere.jpg

Sand blasting_after a couple of years storage.jpg

Sand blasting_next choice.jpg

First time trying weld through primer. Supposedly copper based. The spray can gives user no idea of principles involved or how the coating may react to the heat zone. Typical web threads are confusing. Some say it buggers the weld quality. Some say coat the heat zone entirely, while others say no. Some say in the hottest part of the zone the primer burns off, but remains in the less hot part where other primers would have also burnt - then others say it melts and flows into the weld area (bad luck if your overhead welding cause it will run away).

So I've opted to keep clean the area where the weld will be committed, and bring the primer just adjacent. Main concern is not the preservation of the mounts (6mm), but the thinner chassis wall. Will soak the cavity with fish oil once fully welded as in theory the engine and ancillaries are not going to leak rust preventing engine oil, unlike everything else on a Tdi300

You'll see I left my preliminary spot welds in place, broken between the chassis and the mount - the break will allow re-positioning of the mounts for welding with the engine out if so desired.

Sand blasting_weld through primer.jpg

Sand blasting_weld through primer 2.jpg

Chassis_weld through primer and masking.jpg

Chassis_weld through primer unmasked.jpg

Originally Posted by workingonit

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Sand blasting_weld through primer.jpg

Sorry but those welds are horrible. I would throw that away and start again. Turn up the amps to get better penetration and try holding the torch 2-handed to get a more even pattern.

If you need to go through engineering an inspector wouldn't pass those.