Yes, 6 spline and 50mm length not including the lip that aligns the driveshaft.
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Yes, 6 spline and 50mm length not including the lip that aligns the driveshaft.
IMO the flange could quite reliably be fabricated using the center of a suitable axle drive flange (Salisbury 24 spline/Toyota/Nissan etc), welded into a larger outer flange if required. I don't believe the material of the outer needs to be particularly strong as the stress is low. I've seen drive flanges welded onto Sals rear axles in an ex-African 130 that had done a lot of work with no sign of breakage/cracking. A larger diameter welded center into a gearbox output flange would surely be less stressed.Quote:
Originally Posted by workingonit
If the seal land was on the flange somehow as Vern is suggesting, then the splines are lubricated (tick :) ). Spud shaft could be made from a suitable axle with just the SAE10 needing to be cut. Could likely be done in the hardened state (but I'm no machinist) so would be cheaper to produce (tick :) )
Small spare and easily changed in the field (tick :) )
There have probably been 15 other replies spearing off in different directions while I've been typing this...
Steve
Is the front flange on the LT95 the same as the rear flange? I cannot see the rear flange on my stage 1 as it is encased by the brake drum.
The reason I ask is because the few searches I've just done regarding a front flange all come back to selling the rear flange. You would have to assume they are the same.
And it has different shape and number of holes. Am I to believe the flange is specific to the stage 1?
http://www.shop4autoparts.net/Defend...8_FRC3509.html
Correct. Stage1 had a double-cardan front propshaft.Quote:
Originally Posted by workingonit
Steve
Thanks steveg.
My salsbury axle drive flange is 113mm - too small.
My Troop Carrier if size is consistent, is 104mm - too small.
Trouble is finding an output flange that is large enough to weld into even if we have a centre to suite.
And if we find a flange of 120mm diameter I would probably adapt to the splines already in place - well having said that I'm not sure about SAE6?!
So maybe 20mm thick 4140 was it(?) plate/rod steel cut/milled into large rings to give the 120mm with spline centre of choice welded in...hmmm worth considering - cost of this versus something off the shelf.
I could probably do that my self but as Lotza says the work has to be first class to avoid end wobble.
LT230 is 42mm, so for my conversion, the msa flange is the right length (seal has about 5mm to play with, if not small spacer plate), surely I can find a 45mm seal instead of a 42mm one, get a 10 spline to whatever spline shaft made, stick a welsch plug in the back of the adapter flange to stop oil leaking into the adapter housing.Quote:
Originally Posted by workingonit
As SteveG said, tick, tick, tick.
Absolutely no requirement for high grade steel to weld a center into IMO. MS would be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by workingonit
Steve
And the Heart Foundation ticks many things that other health experts would call time bombs :D
But having thought of a welded centre ie welding into a ring, could mudmouses S3 be given extra diameter that way? S3 are cheap and available. And again it has a reasonable involute set - just need a tiny spud shaft 50mm long, 'x' number of teeth involute one end and 'y' number of teeth involute the other.
If you are talking SIII 24 spline drive flanges, why not ask Barry Ward about getting undrilled HTE 571 hub flanges. He may even do them with the correct 42mm protrusion for the LT230 seal. He can cut the 24 spline flange so it is a press fit onto the spline of the shaft.
He also has the brooches for the early Rover diff, so we could get him to do the spud shaft as well.