I'm always right!😆 makes more sense to me to put the dial indicator on the adapter housing as this should tell me if tge out put shaft is true to the housing. But hey i'm not that smart, just a stupid electricain so could well be wrong😕
Even without checking the shaft against the housing face (which is me being obsessive) you can do the other two with the flange remaining on the shaft.
The problem is if the rear of the box isn't at right angles to the shaft, then the adapter housing (if it is in fact parrallel) could be out of alignment in respect of the LT230 face. This will cause stress on the spud shaft and eventual failure.
If we check and if necessary fix everything step by step as the build progresses then, hopefully, we won't be stuck in the bush with a broken shaft.
For me I'm worried because of the extra weight of Ikea.
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
I'm always right!😆 makes more sense to me to put the dial indicator on the adapter housing as this should tell me if tge out put shaft is true to the housing. But hey i'm not that smart, just a stupid electricain so could well be wrong😕
I think we need to talk in terms of where the probe and base should be placed.
I'm hearing all the why nots and none of the can dos
but I haven't yet bought a box to do it all myself.
If you have to torque up the flange, then torque up the flange!
The result will be that you are checking the assembly instead of each component.
If you mount the base of the dial indicator assembly on the back of the MSA housing and the probe on the flange face. You will find out if it is running parrallel to that point.
If you then mount the base of the dial indicator assembly and the probe on the back of the housing you are double checking that the housing is also flat and parrallel.
Then having the mount on the housing and the probe on the witess ring will confirm that the flange is axially centred (true).
Once you have those 3 parameters checked you can move on to the adapter shaft and housing and check each component in turn.
What you won't be able to do, unless the adapter housing has an inspection window, is check the final assembly. But you can measure and check everything up to that point.
(Remember one of the commercially available Holden engine conversion kits were often out of alignment it 3 separate planes. They had problems with clutches, primary pinion wear and even cracking of the adaptor housing. Checking the assembly with the dial indicator would have saved a lot of hassels.)
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
I won't be doing the nut up until the engine and gearbox are back in the frame so that the engine mounts and gearbox mounts can counter the rotational forces.
First, I'm not going to torque the bolt at this stage, it's not a five minute job
Without the flange torqued up to spec, just hand tight, the witness ring has a variation of 0.2mm. The mating face of the flange still shows the same variation as when I simply had the flange and dial on a steel plate. Can't give you a clock of the back of the MSA case as there is insufficient flat surface on the flange to securely mount the magnetic base.
put two bouts in the flange threads towards the box. shove a bar between them and onto the ground. torque the same way. ie pushing to the ground same side as the bar
one side of the mag base off the centrer ring one side on it. not neede to be flat just not move.
when you had it on the bench what was the run out
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