Thread: Adaptor shaft

Isuzu truck parts Driving Pinion Coupling 8-97075216-3 - Bosket Industrial Co., Ltd
Does it look like this?.

Originally Posted by Vern

Exactly, no need for doweling, the flange on the gearbox would need to be machined to take the witness ring of the other flange.

Hi Vern

I asked the question were the drive flanges flat and no one replied.

You now tell me that the flange has a witness ring that will centre the two flanges. I wouldn't have mentioned dowelling the flange if someone had answered my question.

I still haven't had any one confirm if the flanges are or are checked for true and balance. (But haven't had much of a chance to visit today)

And as you should know by now i have no idea if they are flat as mine is still in the car, i'm just going on what the others have said so best have a crack at them instead of me😆

I'm working my way up to be bothered to put the flange in my four jaw chuck and dial it. Just not sure it will be worth the trouble or will prove anything or how successful I will be.

I've mentioned the witness ring several times and need to mill female recess for adaptor flange.

Another nice find Vern. Wish they would put up a few basic dimensions. Must say though it appears to have a recess where there should be witness ring - or could it just be the perspective playing tricks? In other words we already have the 'male' and what this pictured looks to be is the 'female' version - if the 'female' was a match (witness ring and bolt holes alighned) then that would save some machining steps. Maybe because they changed things for the NKR, that this is specked for.

What about:

• Put your dial indicator on the output shaft to check that the rear of the housing is aligned (90 degrees in all planes) to the shaft.
• Then re-fit the flange and with the dial indicator on the housing face and check the flange face, that will tell you if the flange face is running parrallel.
• Leaving the dial indicator on the housing face and put the tip against the witness ring to check if it is true.

That only leaves balance, but as others have said, it is close to the axis so balance less critical.

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

What about:

• Put your dial indicator on the output shaft to check that the rear of the housing is aligned (90 degrees in all planes) to the shaft.
• Then re-fit the flange and with the dial indicator on the housing face and check the flange face, that will tell you if the flange face is running parrallel.
• Leaving the dial indicator on the housing face and put the tip against the witness ring to check if it is true.

That only leaves balance, but as others have said, it is close to the axis so balance less critical.

Yeah was planning on doing this, but have to remove the lt230 first, which I will do when I get my new transcase. Ahhhh, this may take a few weeks

Lotza. Sorry no can do.

All these tests I would think imply that the output bearing needs to be fully torqued for any test to be reliable. This is not something I am willing to do at the moment as the box is a free agent on the ground. If you look at my conversion post you will see the lengths I had to go to, to get the nut off in the first place, let alone retighten.

Apart from that I don't have any way of securely fitting the dial base to the shaft to check the rear of the housing.

I did a cheat test to check front and rear parallelism of the flange. Gave the flange a quick but not thorough wire brushing. Placed the flange and dial base on a piece of flat steel. Set the dial and by hand rotated the flange around the pitch diameter under the probe point. The needle on the dial bounced about in the range of 0.00 to 0.03mm. Occasional rust bloom/grease smear might see 0.05

PLus your dial indicator won't stick to aluminium