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Thread: Adaptor shaft

  1. #191
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    Talking about machining transfer box gears. The South Africans change the ratio on SIIB transfer cases by machining off the teeth and some of the gear body and then they bore a hole in the centre of a gear which they want to use and sweat it onto the base of the original gear. The last step is to peg the joint between the newly created gear in multiple places.

    I wonder if it would be possible to something similar to the LT230 input and extremely close couple the MSA to the LT230 using the original Isuzu mainshaft spline?

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  2. #192
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    The joining of two gear parts is interesting. Given AM has managed to weld and stress relieve then his approach to weld may be better than pegging in such a two part arrangement. Then there is vacuum brazing (my new buzz phrase).

    Close coupling would mean alteration to prop shafts as engine may not move back enough - engine move certainly not doable in the RRC. And I already have my case.

  3. #193
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    Yet one more idea.

    MSA flange as per usual. Bolt on an unmolested S3 flange (other than removing witness ring and creating recess to take MSA witness ring). Get a stub shaft made - fits into the S3 and takes the fct5090 at the other end with a draw bolt.

    The cost to machine the stub shaft would small if we bought half a dozen each. Plenty of spares.

    The S3 has a 'c' clip groove already machined. Duplicate the groove on the stub shaft and that will resolve float.

    May not be the strongest thing in the world but probably strong enough for most needs. And who cares, it would be so cheap and easy to repair and replace.

    PS. Just holding the parts over the drawing outline of the Outcast shaft. About 20mm may have to be machined of the fct5090 at the MSA side - leaving 20mm of spline - keep in mind the S3 is 28mm! Will need to do more detailed measurements. Some thickness could come off the S3 flange to compensate.

  4. #194
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    Essentially it would look like this, minus maybe 20mm at the most - see finger. The stub shaft would be about 40-50mm long hidden away in side. Anyone know if you can buy single tooth carbide cutters with involute profile - could just about make my own stub using the quill of a mill or decent drill press.

    Mudmouse where are you? Did you try this and did it fail?

    IMGP3247.jpg

  5. #195
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    Thanks Bearman

  6. #196
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    Bolting the S3 to the MSA flange is problematic but probably possible. MSA is 120mm and the S3 113.5mm.

    Just measured the Troop Carrier drive flange on the transfer case, to which the rear prop bolts, and it is 119mm - much better. Will see if I can pick up a service discard at the wreckers or auto shop - think I can find one in Darwin?

  7. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by workingonit View Post
    snip...

    Someone mentioned it, but I want to see if its true. Did Sheldon incorporate the back cover of the MSA into the adaptor case? With the Outcast that cover is removed and discarded.
    No - the back cover is also discarded with Sheldon's. See this page: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...-lt230-11.html

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
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  8. #198
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    Hi again. Sorry, but I came into this late.. Can one of you post a pic of the back of the gearbox you are trying to mate the LT230 to? There's a company in the UK called Rakeway Engineering who mfr and supply a shaft that fits into the LT, and has a bolt flange.. Surely if a boss was spun up with one side matching the Isuzu box and the other side matching this Rakeway part (uses a Land Rover flange)... then all that needs to be done is make the conversion ring/tube around it... Just a thought.
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  9. #199
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    have a flick through the pictures Steve just linked to

  10. #200
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    Bearman is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by workingonit View Post
    What the...

    Obviously the rotate didn't work.

    The 'Edit' button float box says the button is for 'Edite/delete messages' but could not see a delete anywhere. Yes I could get rid of the text, but you would still have an empty reply. Anyone know how to delete a reply totally?
    What do you want to delete, the 2nd photo.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
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