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Thread: EDIC wiring help please

  1. 19th May 2016, 06:54 PM #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    The wire from the charge light should be continuous to wherever the voltage regulator for the alternator is. If your Hitachi alternator has an internal regulator then the same wire will appear there too. However behind the dash is subject to lower heat and vibration so if you can easily fit the diode there then all is good. Basically anywhere you can see that wire in the loom you can cut it and solder in a diode. Find a wiring diagram to identify the correct colours on the wire and follow the loom to where access is easy.

    Any electronics shop will have a suitable diode for approx $1. Mount the diode so that the end marked with a ring is on the alternator side.

    I got some diodes from Jaycar. They seem to be opposite to what's indicated in your diagram, with the end with the ring being the positive end. This was confirmed when I connected one into the warning light wire. The light would only come on if the ring end was on the warning light side. Unfortunately there was no affect on the EDIC unit.
    The salesman said they are just standard diodes.
    I've wired in a light globe for now, at least I wont have to stall the engine to stop it.

    Cheers, Murray

    '88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
    '85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
    '56 SI Ute Cab

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  2. 19th May 2016, 09:57 PM #12
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    Polarity from beeutey is correct Murray. Alternator warning lights are confusing buggers, as they earth through the alternator and as the alternator voltage comes up it balances the battery voltage on the other side of the light and therefore no did fence = no current flow.
    To confirm your diode polarity put one in series with a small wattage light bulb (like the 5W tail filament in a stop/tail light. The light bulb reduces the current down to about half a watt so won't smoke the diode.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive
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  3. 19th May 2016, 10:35 PM #13
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    I'm thinking that you may have one of the few vehicles with a charge light controlled by a relay. Which means the diode needs to be on the relay operating wire. No idea where to look for it.
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  4. 1st November 2016, 09:31 PM #14
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    Sorry for coming in late to the party here,

    My EDIC did a similar thing recently, turned out to be a bad connection from the EDIC to the relay due to some water getting into the connectors (this isn't your issue but FYI).

    However your issue sounds a lot like the relay is playing up and not de-energizing, however a globe shouldn't cause this issue as the relay should shut off at like 4-6v.

    I know others have said measure voltage at IGN when off, measure voltage at relay gnd, and at edic ground, something has to be leaking some high voltage, or bad relay (test with a multi-meter across the ign to gnd).

    Maybe even the relay is working and the EDIC (check Energise with Ign ON still has voltage or not after switching off) is having issues with the low voltage.

    Just some ideas but it sounds like you have a temp solution now anyway.
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  5. 2nd November 2016, 12:22 AM #15
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    I fixed mine with one of these Murray,

    https://goo.gl/images/v2x0aO

    Jc ☺
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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  6. 2nd November 2016, 08:34 AM #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    I fixed mine with one of these Murray,

    https://goo.gl/images/v2x0aO

    Jc ☺
    Have definitely considered that option, but my light globe resistor is working well for now.

    Cheers, Murray
    '88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
    '85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
    '56 SI Ute Cab

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  7. 2nd November 2016, 04:45 PM #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    I fixed mine with one of these Murray,

    https://goo.gl/images/v2x0aO

    Jc ☺
    Ooo I like that, it looks like it would work being fit to the bonnet release tab (Perenties don't have a bonnet release cable).
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  8. 2nd November 2016, 04:55 PM #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    I fixed mine with one of these Murray,

    https://goo.gl/images/v2x0aO

    Jc ☺
    Ooo I like that, it looks like it would work being fit to the bonnet release tab.
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  9. 2nd November 2016, 05:08 PM #19
    workingonit
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    You say 'Ooo' but did anyone follow the link, then click 'visit page' to see the unimog with a front end loader attachment! Ooo Ooooo Oooooooo!

    Actually, I'm not sure if the hydraulics lifts the mog instead of the bucket?!
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  10. 2nd November 2016, 06:05 PM #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by workingonit View Post
    You say 'Ooo' but did anyone follow the link, then click 'visit page' to see the unimog with a front end loader attachment! Ooo Ooooo Oooooooo!

    Actually, I'm not sure if the hydraulics lifts the mog instead of the bucket?!
    I did follow the link and visit the page but never saw unimog...
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