Diesel fuel to injectors problem

**GypzyJack** · 14th September 2016, 09:35 PM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

And theres the problem.

the fuel shut off is most likely not returning to the run position.

if you still have the electric motor make sure it winds with the key, it is possible (although very rare) for it to get itself out of phase with life, more common is electrical issues with it, it seizing up or blowing its fuse.

when you ignition on/off you should hear a noise like an old wiper motor doing one stroke when the ignition goes on or off. If you dont have that then your first issue is to fault find the wind motor or bypass it and use a manual control.

once you find the fuel cut cable (theres only 2 cables and one goes to the go pedal, if you need to have someone work the noisey pedal while you look at the pump) disconnect it. have your offsider crank the engine with their foot all the way to the floor while you operate the remaining lever. it'll spit fuel out the injector or start and run when you get the lever in the go position.

Hi, Dave
When I returned to the 4x4 after 6 months the first thing I did was go through the terminals on the ignition switch to make sure as best I could that the wiring was correct.
I notice that the whirring noise you referred to when you turn the key to the on position is opening the cut-off switch...and when you turn the key off, the lever returns to the off position now.
However, I noticed today that I don't have any ignition lights coming on on the instrument panel in the dash!
I checked the position of the cut-off lever against that of the 6x6 Perenties and it is the same.
So I am back to square one again!

Could the absence of ignition lights on the instrument panel interfere with the fuel delivery from the injectors?

Cheers, Jack

**Blknight.aus** · 14th September 2016, 11:00 PM

so with that sorted.

now you crack the bleen screw on the injector pump. manually prime it till you get fuel out of there, charge up the battery (or hook up a good set of jump cables) open all4 injector unions set the max throttle position and crank it till fuel spits out the injector unions. lock up the injector unions and crank it again.

if you want even faster cranking for the bleed remove the glow plugs.

**GypzyJack** · 16th September 2016, 07:57 AM

Just an update!

Due to not having an 'offsides' until next Tuesday I haven't been able to progress much further on My own.

Thanks to all those who have offered ideas as to what the problems can be.

As I am discovering with a winch problem in a 6x6 I have, it can be a mix of little problems all masking one another...so need to start with something that you know does work, and go from there!!

Cheers
Jack

**GypzyJack** · 16th September 2016, 05:47 PM

I have an update which raises some questions re electrical issues.

Background:
My problems began with the stop not working on the key some 6 months ago. If I'd known about this site I might have resolved the problem simply at the time, but I left the problem behind to go touring.
When I came back to the problem with a mechanic friend we finishes up mucking around with the wires on the ignition barrel.

Current:
As of late this afternoon, I went to charge up the barrel and being almost dark noticed that the dash lights were illuminated even though the ignition key was turned off. I located the wire for the dash and disconnected it.
The question arises:
Could an electrical mis-wiring at the ignition be the cause of the fuel not making it under pressure to the feed lines?
Note: The stop/go lever appears to be in the right position when turning the key on before ignition. (I have checked the position against that of the 6x6's I have.)

Cheers, Jack

**GypzyJack** · 16th September 2016, 05:49 PM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

so with that sorted.

now you crack the bleen screw on the injector pump. manually prime it till you get fuel out of there, charge up the battery (or hook up a good set of jump cables) open all4 injector unions set the max throttle position and crank it till fuel spits out the injector unions. lock up the injector unions and crank it again.

if you want even faster cranking for the bleed remove the glow plugs.

Hi, Dave

I note that there doesn't appear to be any dash light associated with the glow plugs.
Should there be?

Cheers, Jack

**GypzyJack** · 19th September 2016, 08:14 PM

It turned out to be an electrical problem at the ignition switch.

when the met was turned to the on position, the stop motor opened, and when the key was turned to engage the starter motor the stop motor closed the fuel off.

I reversed the main wires on the ignition poles and then relocated other wires and the ignition worked perfectly, stopping the motor when the key was turned off, which had been the original problem when the stop motor wouldn't activate with the key turned off.

Now the gauge are working as well.

HOWEVER, now I have a problem with the alternator. It got hot and smoked!

Thanks for all your imput, especially Dave.

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