Thread: Our Defender/County 120?

Cut the tie rails to size and refitted. New mud flaps, trimmed the flares then a quick wash. Looks half respectable again.
Got the roady today. The examiner took it for a spin to do the brake test, when he got back had a huge grin on his face, said...... xxxx! This thing pulls like a truck! Was most impressed with the mechanical condition for its age. No oil leaks etc. Said the brakes work better than the new cruisers! Less pedal pressure and more G force. (This one has 4 wheel disc).





I was looking at these mud flaps on ebay

strengthening the front diff is next on the agenda as this set up cant last much longer One for the 4BD1 boys

I could waste a heap of coin trying to beef it up with pegging, locker, HD shafts or the Toyota conversion that would likely smash wile I'm backing out of a gully with over a ton on the tray.

I'm aware of the short falls (Clearance issues with the 4BD1 and a grader blade) but really want to go with a sals. I see in other threads its discussed building one up is possible of just source one from the UK.

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

strengthening the front diff is next on the agenda as this set up cant last much longer One for the 4BD1 boys

I could waste a heap of coin trying to beef it up with pegging, locker, HD shafts or the Toyota conversion that would likely smash wile I'm backing out of a gully with over a ton on the tray.

I'm aware of the short falls (Clearance issues with the 4BD1 and a grader blade) but really want to go with a sals. I see in other threads its discussed building one up is possible of just source one from the UK.

They are around, but I'm not convinced the CV's on the 110 version will take the punishment.



It appears the 101 front sals is a tad to wide but had bigger CV's that are expensive and almost impossible to get now
I believe the Brits have dumped the sals for field service reasons a wile back so should be a few floating around by now
Be good if we could use Toymota shafts and CV's, even if not indestructible are plentiful. There has to be a way

The 6x6 manages OK with just a much stronger (fully cast) housing, and a special ring and pinion (but they are 4.7 which is weaker).

From my measurements, it would be hard to fit a sals without a lift and spacers under the bump stops.

The sals is 99% the same as a Dana 60, so there is no reason you couldn't build one with open knuckles and 35 spline UJs (steering may be slightly notchy on tight turns, but some Jeeps managed UJs and constant 4x4 OK).

You can then run 35 spline shafts.

However - Longfield 30-spline CVs, or 35-spline dana 60 CVs (with open knuckles) are also an option.

Originally Posted by isuzurover

The 6x6 manages OK with just a much stronger (fully cast) housing, and a special ring and pinion (but they are 4.7 which is weaker).

From my measurements, it would be hard to fit a sals without a lift and spacers under the bump stops.

The sals is 99% the same as a Dana 60, so there is no reason you couldn't build one with open knuckles and 35 spline UJs (steering may be slightly notchy on tight turns, but some Jeeps managed UJs and constant 4x4 OK).

You can then run 35 spline shafts.

However - Longfield 30-spline CVs, or 35-spline dana 60 CVs (with open knuckles) are also an option.

Thanks Ben, I like the Dana 60 idea and a bit of a knock on lock wouldn't bother me at all.
I'm fair dinkum on doing this so really interested in your in put.
Main thing is, I want to retain the 3.54, use components that are readily available,retain the 110 brakes and hubs. I have access to a deasent lathe but not a serious mill
My 120's front bump stops have been lifted another 25odd mm over stock so would be over 2" on a V8 110 chassis. I recon we would go close to clearing the sals.

I would have ultimately gone the easy bog portals but my engineer said no
I know I really should have a Mog here but the Rover is so much lighter and dosnt make a mess in the wet.

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

Thanks Ben, I like the Dana 60 idea and a bit of a knock on lock wouldn't bother me at all.
I'm fair dinkum on doing this so really interested in your in put.
Main thing is, I want to retain the 3.54, use components that are readily available,retain the 110 brakes and hubs. I have access to a deasent lathe but not a serious mill
My 120's front bump stops have been lifted another 25odd mm over stock so would 2" on a V8 110 chassis. I recon we would go close to clearing the sals.

I would have ultimately gone the easy bog portals but my engineer said no
I know I really should have a Mog here but the Rover is so much lighter and dosnt make a mess in the wet.

The cheapest way then would be to try and track down an F250 or chev with a front D60. and the 3.54:1 sals diff centre from a stage 1 or county (or you can buy new D60 3.54 CW&Ps). You just then need to narrow that to suit, weld on the suspension bits, swap the D60 side gears into the sals centre, and hey presto...

(you would also need some McNamara (or rovertracks) stub axles, drive flanges, etc, to allow you to run 1.5" 35-spline axles if you wish, with standard rover hubs.

The only downside is some Dana 60 diffs came in 1.3" 30 spline, some in 1.5" 35-spline, and some in 1.3?" 16 spline (coarse). Some also only had a 2-pin diff centre. However, you can just swap the side gears into the 4-pin sals centre (unless you are fitting a locker as well).

The axle shafts aren't usually necked down, so you can shorten and respline if doing things on the cheap - but aftermarket shafts are plentiful in the US.

This should help:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/

Keith from rovertracks also has lists of all the bearings you need when mixing and matching sals and d60 centres.

Originally Posted by isuzurover

The cheapest way then would be to try and track down an F250 or chev with a front D60. and the 3.54:1 sals diff centre from a stage 1 or county (or you can buy new D60 3.54 CW&Ps). You just then need to narrow that to suit, weld on the suspension bits, swap the D60 side gears into the sals centre, and hey presto...

(you would also need some McNamara (or rovertracks) stub axles, drive flanges, etc, to allow you to run 1.5" 35-spline axles if you wish, with standard rover hubs.

The only downside is some Dana 60 diffs came in 1.3" 30 spline, some in 1.5" 35-spline, and some in 1.3?" 16 spline (coarse). Some also only had a 2-pin diff centre. However, you can just swap the side gears into the 4-pin sals centre (unless you are fitting a locker as well).

The axle shafts aren't usually necked down, so you can shorten and respline if doing things on the cheap - but aftermarket shafts are plentiful in the US.

This should help:
Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive

Keith from rovertracks also has lists of all the bearings you need when mixing and matching sals and d60 centres.

I have a spare 110 sals here so CWP is sorted Lots of reading to do with your links and many others Thanks again ben. We will make it happen. Be nice to build it up over time before I smash this rover front. I think for durability I'll only lock the rear and keep the front open. Wont be a weapon off road compared to some but should never burst.

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

I have a spare 110 sals here so CWP is sorted Lots of reading to do with your links and many others Thanks again ben. We will make it happen. Be nice to build it up over time before I smash this rover front. I think for durability I'll only lock the rear and keep the front open. Wont be a weapon off road compared to some but should never burst.

Well when you make one, be sure to make nice jigs, as myself and Vern would be interested