Non shut down

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Originally Posted by Dougal

Mine is sprung to stay open. It takes force to hold it closed to shut the engine down.

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Yes, just checked that - sprung to the engine run position. Having checked the force required to move it, I think a central locking actuator would work. Note that if more force is needed it would be fairly easy to arrange two of these to operate together to provide twice the force.

John

Not confined to Landrovers - a few years ago I had a contractor in cleaning out dams - he got me to drive his Patrol back to the road while he drove the shovel. When I got there it wouldn't shut off. When he arrived he told me "Oh you just pull this" - and pulled a piece of tie wire sticking out under the dash. Engine stopped.

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Originally Posted by land864

Sounds like the choke / hand throttle type cable set up is the most fail safe method.

No fuses , no electrics , no actuators :)

KISS principle.

Any idea of a part number for the cable and handle.

I saw one in a County just to the top RHS of the fuse box , in the firewall.

It was a round pull out to stop knob and locked in the out or off position with a twist action to release or start

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You can get these from any decent diesel engine and parts shop. They are called a ratchet stop cable or locking stop cable. This sort of cable was a required fitment on trucks from about 1970 until the mandatory key stop became law about 1983. The stop cable should be pull out to run. This way the engine is not made "live" if the knob is accidentally pushed in, as in a repairman fossicking around under the dash.

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Originally Posted by land864

I just want to get it running for now to get it across there!

If I disconnect the actuator cable and manually operate the fuel shut down assembly level , is it stiff enough to stay in the open position or do I have to cable tie it open or something:confused:

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If it is as per factory, then the stop cable passes through a bracket on the manifold, held on by two 10 mm bolts. Take these two bolts out, and let the cable hang free. The pump will move to the run position (as it is spring loaded).

To stop it, just lift the bonnet and pull on the cable.

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Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm

You can get these from any decent diesel engine and parts shop. They are called a ratchet stop cable or locking stop cable. This sort of cable was a required fitment on trucks from about 1970 until the mandatory key stop became law about 1983. The stop cable should be pull out to run. This way the engine is not made "live" if the knob is accidentally pushed in, as in a repairman fossicking around under the dash.

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Series landies work the other way. Pull out to stop.

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

Series landies work the other way. Pull out to stop.

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I know, most diesel vehicles of times gone by were like this. It is not regarded as being safe. Push to stop was initially accepted by authorities as an alternative to locking stop cables when their use was mandated.

Thanks Guys

I will give the bolt undo method a try and see if she runs then.

It is a she.

We've named her Theresa ( Tess ) because she's green.

Treeza Green ;)

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

To pass a "proper" RWC, the engine needs to start and stop with the key.

(although on old vehicles like my IIA landie the cable is fine).

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Series 3 with the 4BD1 (called a "Stage 1" by some), build dates early 1980s, had a stop cable...

does anyone know when the requirement for key actuation came in?

edit: just read above post - 1983 apparently

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Originally Posted by clean32

isuzubob how did you get a photo from down there? you have your guards off or just a mini cam?

whats the thingy with the blue cable. im jealous because i doint have a thingy but then i prefer red!

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The engine is from a 3.9D (Stage 1) hence the manual stop cable. The guards were off so I could get good photos. The thingy with the blue cable is (I think) for the oil pressure gauge which was fitted.

Ben , Isuzu Rov

You are the ducks guts:):):)

Undo 2 bolts , cable slips , shut off opens, Isuzu runs:D:D:D

How good is this forum;)

I still have the knob and cable from the Landie that the 4BD1 came from, someday when I have time I'll be installing it as a backup if the bag stops working.

Glenn