Thread: Non shut down

The 4BD1 is shut down by a separate actuator that should be tucked under the RH mudguard in a plastic bag. It is connected via a cable to a lever on the injection pump. As its operation is noisy it should be easy to check whether it is working.

If it is not, then the unit is faulty, or the circuit to it is faulty - this should include a fuse and a relay, and may take a bit of detective work to find. If the unit is faulty, do a search in this section of the forum, some people have found sources for the unit, I think from memory in Singapore. The alternative is to fit a stop cable - but note that this will not be legal.

If it is working, there are too possibilities - a broken or slipping cable to the pump, or the engine is running on its own oil. This could be via a breather, worn piston rings, excessive oil level (possibly as a result of dribbling injectors) but if it is a turbo, it is most likely coming from worn bearings in the turbocharger.

Obviously the cost will vary widely according to what you find is the trouble.

John

The only way i can turn my zook off is by stalling it Turn the key off take it out she still runs

Originally Posted by JDNSW

The 4BD1 is shut down by a separate actuator that should be tucked under the RH mudguard in a plastic bag. It is connected via a cable to a lever on the injection pump. As its operation is noisy it should be easy to check whether it is working.

If it is not, then the unit is faulty, or the circuit to it is faulty - this should include a fuse and a relay, and may take a bit of detective work to find. If the unit is faulty, do a search in this section of the forum, some people have found sources for the unit, I think from memory in Singapore. The alternative is to fit a stop cable - but note that this will not be legal.

If it is working, there are too possibilities - a broken or slipping cable to the pump, or the engine is running on its own oil. This could be via a breather, worn piston rings, excessive oil level (possibly as a result of dribbling injectors) but if it is a turbo, it is most likely coming from worn bearings in the turbocharger.

Obviously the cost will vary widely according to what you find is the trouble.

John

What JD said. I thought mine was buggered, but turned out to be a poor contact on one of the wire connectors in the dash. Whenever I moved the wires (e.g. did any work behind the dash) it would stop working.

is the alternator original?

common problem with the isuzu not stopping ( like mine) turn the key off with your foot on the brakes or the lights on. if it stops with that than you may want to put a diode in some where

Originally Posted by clean32

is the alternator original?

common problem with the isuzu not stopping ( like mine) turn the key off with your foot on the brakes or the lights on. if it stops with that than you may want to put a diode in some where

x2 Try holding your foot on the brake while turning off the key.

Thaks All

John. I hope not.
Grove. I've been doing that , but putting all that torque on the clutch and bits
Clean and Muz. Very Interesting

Geez you guys are good

Get into car , start it up , juggle mess of wires where fuse box is, put foot on brake , switch off and hey presto it shuts down. Repeat 3 -4 times , no problems and on each restart I can hear the valve assembly motor open up with a buzzing sound in behind the dash on drivers side.
So happy , I go back out 2 hrs later , switch ignition on , no buzzing sound and no start , will crank but no fuel delivery?
Sounds like dodgy wiring.
I do know that it has dodgy wiring.
Can I remove the cable and do it manually for now

To get you going again (or stopping) you can put a manual choke cable in; it's the same system that the earlier 3.9Ds had. I don't know if it will cause RWC issues like that though.

Rob W