Wizard
SupporterOK, I'll try again.
Slug burner and bee utey have offered some advice as to why an output shaft wobbles and why it does not.
Its a no brainer that it will not wobble when the wobble end gets supported ie in the input gear.
Putting the question another way. Why do some output shafts wobble when the end support is removed. To me it does not wobble simply because it 'wobbles'.
The output shaft has to be driven. To my way of thinking it has to be driven by another shaft inside the gearbox (unless is a gear arrangement). The two shafts are connected by a set of precision cut splines.
Lets hold up the zf auto and the MSA side by side, forgetting one is an auto and the other is a manual.
To my way of thinking, Land Rover either relies on absolutely perfect gearbox/transfer case alignment or they have an inbuilt mechanism that allows for minor misalignment.
Being a novice I'm guessing, but the zf may deliberately included bearings with a lot of slack. The output shaft, and the driving shaft inside the box act as a conjoined unit - they do not in anyway move independently of each other - the output shaft does not 'wobble' on the end of the shaft driving it. If there is any stress on the 10 splines because of misalignment with the transfer case then the stress is relieved by loose bearings in the gear box.
The MSA box most/all of us have on the other hand was originally designed to drive a rear prop shaft. Looking at my MSA today I find the output shaft has absolutely rock solid. This makes sense because there does not have to be an in build mechanism to allow for misalignment. The uni joins on the prop shaft take care of most issues. This takes us back to the point made earlier that you may need some other sort of stress relief if you are going to couple the MSA to a transfer case where alignment is not perfect.
Has anyone any experience with the MSA where is was used in Isuzu 4x4 trucks - was the output shaft as rigid as it was in the 2x4? Or did they give free play to the output shaft to allow for any misalignments?
So Ancient Mariners is a good solution, but not the total solution if you need to rely on floating shafts made at different times by different companies with varying opinions on how the metal should be treated. Outcast say their's is cryoed, but then many people poo poo cryo as a fad. ???? Note, Ashcroft axle shafts are advertised as cryo'd.
I would take Ancients solution over the Sheldon/Outcast type if there is any risk of infrequent breaking.
Ancient, put me out of my misery...why do some out put shafts wobble when the end support is removed...please...
TopicToaster
SubscriberSo whats the most practical way of your average DIY bloke checking the alignment of the shaft and housing?
I'm guessing there's probably not much that Damien can do now with limited tools, but once he gets it home or for others with a similar setup that want to check??
Steve
1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
1988 120 with rust and potential
1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive
Wizard
SupporterAncient, how many kms have you put on your unit?
ForumSage
I have just spotted this thread and sorry about the time that has passed since you had trouble.Originally Posted by Vern
Give me a ring if you need a hand still.
I will PM you my phone number.
Last edited by wrinklearthur; 14th January 2015 at 07:12 AM. Reason: mumbo sorted
Wizard
SupportersteveG, yes I've wondered how you can ensure the best alignment. If they're being professionally manufactured then you have to rely on their skill.
I think you may have little choice when using the Outcast as they use the transfer case dowel to align with one side of their casing. From memory the other end of the Outcast casing duplicates the internal recesses etc found in the original cast iron Isuzu cover and uses those 'witnesses' to self align.
When I get the kit ready for final install I'm thinking I'll just pull the input gear on an off and see if I can detect any 'grab' not apparent when no input shaft installed. Really not ideal, if not silly.
OldBushie
Well this thread (like a lot of threads here) is going knowhere.
My shaft snapped very easily.
Its a pain to swap over.
Its a pain to get a replacement.
Is there a better option/design?
Wtf do i do about it?
Simple, make a new one.
So far AM has in my opinion the best option.
If anyone has a better design or advice on a design then post it up, i don't give a rats ass about alignment and floppy shafts, just want to fix what i have, simple!😊
ForumSage
Have the measurements been passed on to someone that can make a new shaft for you?
I can chase up a couple of blokes that have well equipped engineering workshops.
Are you camped in a comfy spot and how are the rest of the travelling team holding up?
.
OldBushie
All good arthur, have had a loner shaft sent from mockey in wa, just bolted it in.
Waiting on some muscle to turn up and give me a lift, had friends with us but they kept on moving as no point sitting here. On there way back to give me a lift.
If all goes well should have it back on the road just after lunch.
The 40mm of rain we had in the last 24hrs hasn't helped, and neither has one of my kids getting gastro!
Gettinh a lot of "i told you so" by the wife.
"Should have bought the amarok" pops up to.
Planning a 3 month top end trip for next year, it might happen in a completely new different breed😦
OldBushie
We're alive again😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😆😊😊.
Now i'm just going to take easy until i get home, the holiday continues
TopicToaster
Sorry to hear of your troubles Damien, but great to see how people have jumped in and helped with spares etc. Hope the rest of the trip goes OK. If you have any more problems I can send down a tried and tested LT95 to get you back on the road again
Cheers......Brian
1985 110 V8 County
1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)
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