Thread: camper trailer questions...

There is 12v at the white plug, however the wiring to it is much too small to carry the current required to charge or otherwise power your camper trailer.

What you really need to do is add a dual battery controller (usually under the bonnet) and the appropriately sized cabling to the rear of your car to charge your camper batteries.

If you go to the traxide website Tim has some good diagrams of what is required or you can buy the whole kit from him.

As for the hitch, you can buy a new Treg system and bolt that to your camper. It will come with both parts and connect to whatever receiver you wish to use in the Mitch Hitch. I use an adjustable receiver so I can get the trailer level as the Mitch Hitch is fairly high.

The Treg system is a good strong and reliable (if it is genuine) system, however it can be a bit of a pain to align when hitching and the poly block is prone to wear. I use a McHitch which is easier to connect and I think a better system.

Originally Posted by Geedublya

What you really need to do is add a dual battery controller (usually under the bonnet) and the appropriately sized cabling to the rear of your car to charge your camper batteries.

I use a McHitch which is easier to connect and I think a better system.

Thanks mate - so you don't have a 2nd battery in the car but just the dual system to look after the trailer batteries?

The McHitch system looks great - I'll reckon I'll give it a go

I do have a second battery which I use to power my engel and other accessories.
A dual battery is not required if you just want to charge the camper batteries.

I should have mentioned there are other off road hitches such as the vehicle components DO-35, the Oz Hitch, Alko hitch and Hyland hitch.

What I like about the McHitch is that the only moving part is the uni joint which is sealed and greasable by grease nipples. All the others either pivot around the pin/ball which can wear or have bushes that wear.

The McHitch is not as easy to align as the ball couplings or the Oz hitch but I think it is a better design and not very difficult to hook up.

Cant recommend the Traxide system enough. The kit comes complete with cables cut to length, anderson plug out the rear of your car...only needing to get your own battery.

Then you will have ample power available in your car for fridges are other bits and bobs that take your fancy..all on the second battery..so no fear of a flat starter battery.

The hitch question will open up a can of worms..everyone has their favorite. I use a DO35. They are super easy to use and the car/trailer do not have to be spot on to connect, but they are pricey.

Whatever you decide, most important thing is to get out and use your new camper...and upload some pics to make the rest of us jealous.

another vote for DO35 that Vehical Components make......easy to line up and drop n

i see they have changed the design a bit HITCHMASTER® drop on couplings

I forgot to mention brake controllers. If your trailer has electric brakes fitted, you need a controller fitted to you vehicle by law.

another good investment is to ditch that OEM hitch receiver (plough) and fit a Mitch Hitch. It will give you higher clearance when towing. Mine has the tow coupling at 540mm high....but it all depends on your trailer

The way I understand it brakes are required on trailers over 750kg, up to 2 tonne these can be mechanical (over ride) or electric.
Over 2 tonne there must be a breakaway system fitted and the brakes have to be electrical.
I believe if you have over ride and electric brakes fitted under 2 tonne there is no requirement to use the electrical if the over ride is in use. I have both on my camper trailer and at the moment I'm using over ride only. I have a brake controller which I am delaying fitting as I will probably get a new vehicle in the next few months.

Originally Posted by jimc

another good investment is to ditch that OEM hitch receiver (plough)

The D4's doesn't have the same plough capability as the D3's.