Reply With QuoteSomething like this: DISCO3 ShopOriginally Posted by Scary
Fossicker
If you find and adapter from the 12s to Anderson Let me know! I am picking up a camper today and whilst it has an inverter etc for charging the dual batteries in the camper I want to charge on the run.Statements made in the following text are up for critique guys, I am no expert in this and am looking for someone to convince me that my thinking is incorrect. PLease do help as I am unsure which way to proceed. I have also contacted Land Rover and will gladly feed back the response when I have it.
I spent some time trying to identify the fuses (from my manual) which are in line with the various pins of the white 12S socket on the rear of my 2013 LR4. I am desperately trying to use this socket as the thought of ripping out this socket and lifting carpets to run larger cables is worrying me on a 5 day old car
My attached drawing is produced as you would view the socket with the socket orientated the correct way as to my car. (location tab at 3 o'clock position. I established the battery 12V (full time live) position and followed the conventional 12s Wiring plug drawings to identify others from this benchmark. But I cant agree with the drawings that I have seen in that the blue pin at the 10 ish position is unidentified. If anyone can help please do.
I have no indication whether my drawing is attached so forgive me if i need to repost. (first time with an attachment). There is a problem wiring heavy electrical items directly to the ignition pin in that it is only fused at 15A and at 12V this will power a very small battery charger or a small recreational fridge but possibly not both. Better by far from what I see is to have suitable isolation and wire heavy items from the battery positive pin but beware that this is live at all times irrespective of the ignition status of the car and could run down the cranking battery. Is a possible solution then to swap this 30A feed over to your aux battery if running a dual system? After all this is what people do with 12v sockets which feed on board fridges etc and 30A should power just about any mobile fridge I know of.
I plan to use the ignition feed (12v+ with ignition) as the connection to a Redarc 12v 25A dc dc charger as the indication that the ignition is on (alternator running) but the charging current will be delivered via this battery feed pin (30A) Has anyone else fitted anything like this system and got away without stripping out the 12S socket.
All help or comments more than welcome.
Something like this: DISCO3 Shop
Fossicker
I have lost it now, but where can I buy the 12s plug from? Landrover or elsewhere?
Fossicker
Landrover was the only place I could get it from.
Cheers , Murray
Master
Get the 12S from eBay or similar; total cost for me was $30, but I did use the other end of the extension cable for solar charging.
My write up is here.
Fossicker
out of interest I just spoke to Southern Landrover here in Perth and they have 12s to Anderson plug leads in stock for $30.
I will confirm once I pick up.
Very Very Lucky!
The traxide system uses 13.5m wire D4 Dual Battery Kit 2 to the andeson plug.
My LED light bar mounted on my roof rack was wired with a 2 metre 5mm wire, The fuse melted after a long 7 hour night run. I viewed it as very lucky my car did not burn.
The my nice autolectricans 5mm wire was visually much heavier diameter copper core than the "5mm" wire orgionally installed by someone else for my light.
Our D3s are about 4 meters to the tow point from the battery, our trailer or mine has the battery 7 meters further back. I would double check any advice if not using a product with a guarantee it will not burn my car. I am not sure if the white plug is enough. I know it was not enough for me.
Handy Hints – REDARC Electronics or Voltage Drop Calculator
are fun to play with
Fossicker
Scary, if your Camper has an inverter fitted, this is not going to be much use charging your camper battery as the inverter is supplied BY your CT battery and converts battery DC to AC so that you can run 240V domestic appliances (depending on inverter size and type). If you are saying that the inverter is supplied by the Cars 12V output and a 240V/ 12V battery charger is fitted on the CT to charge on the run then this may work but I am not sure of how long this will take to charge your CT Battery and it isnt the normal set up to my knowledge.
As regards the adaptor I cant even find a plug supplier in oz! According to an Auto Electrician I spoke to yesterday, the wiring has to be rated at a minimum of 10% above the fuse rating, so it looks as though the 12V battery +ve wiring in my LR4 is rated at 33A which should be more than enough to run my Redarc 1225 charger. Although it is rated at 25A my battery should draw nowhere near that.
I'm still waiting for a response from Landrover regarding the OEM wiring suitability, the (non OEM) auto electrician yesterday said that it should be fine but then went on to say that I should add Anderson plugs front and rear so could have been upselling?!
Fossicker
This is one of the most useful responses i have seen Weakestlink, so forgive me for probing a bit more. Many peopole here are talking about placing the loads onto the ignition pin of the 12S socket, was that the case for you? and what size fuse blew, was it the cars 15A or 30A or was it an in line fuse? Sorry for asking but I am trying hard to determine whether peo-le are wiring to the incorrect circuits for the size of their loads as this is not made clear within the stories. the 30A Battery Positive pin should be wred with 33A Cable to the socket and is fused at 30A obviously. I think that people are not connecteing to this supply for fear of deadening their cranking battery. The answer is a low volts isolator to switch off the load when the battery terminal volts drop to a level which will still allow a start to be made.The traxide system uses 13.5m wire D4 Dual Battery Kit 2 to the andeson plug.
My LED light bar mounted on my roof rack was wired with a 2 metre 5mm wire, The fuse melted after a long 7 hour night run. I viewed it as very lucky my car did not burn
The my nice autolectricans 5mm wire was visually much heavier diameter copper core than the "5mm" wire orgionally installed by someone else for my light.
Our D3s are about 4 meters to the tow point from the battery, our trailer or mine has the battery 7 meters further back. I would double check any advice if not using a product with a guarantee it will not burn my car. I am not sure if the white plug is enough. I know it was not enough for me.
Handy Hints – REDARC Electronics or Voltage Drop Calculator
are fun to play with
Fossicker
This is helpful PHL thanks. I see that you have connected to the 12V Battery Positive as I plan to. What is the maximum current draw of your CTEK charger? Have you used it yet and was all OK? Thanks again.
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