Thread: camper trailer questions...

Originally Posted by phl

FWIW, my D4 (current MY13) has an AGM cranking battery.

I gather from Tim that the AGM can take a higher charging rate via a higher voltage. The CTEK also has a higher voltage for AGM batteries, or normal wet cells in cold temperatures.

I just checked my D4 My13 - AGM too. I never knew these were used for cranking batteries, always thought they suffered when deliveing such high power. Must have sorted it out then. Great batteries!

Originally Posted by weakestlink

crack at nails was off target sorry and no apology needed. The biggest nail I have is myself
The minor voltage difference is the battery types, newer cranking battery is the lower but that is to do with the deep cycle battery I assume.
I will put the voltage thingy on another D3 or D4 in the white plug to see and will post it. Several pull up in front of my business at times. I have fun chatting not meaning to offend and refuse to be offended by almost any comment. I am always right as are people who disagree with me Every question on the forum often puts me off tangent looking at a perspective which is not alway suitable for others. 4wd tv on C31 tonight had a little on power draw YOUR4X4 I was working when taking the voltages and while half looking at 4wd tv.

Look forward to seeing your project. Have fun and keep us in the loop where your trailer gets towed too.

Thanks weakestlink. Glad you werent offended. I draw a lot of suport from forums such as these and can "give back" on subjects I understand. Some may not agree but that is the fun of forums sometimes.

Originally Posted by phl

So far I've connected the CTEK (5A) and solar panels (Theoretical max 10A, but max I've seen is 8A). In theory it should be good to 25A, as that's what it's fused for.

I'm contemplating getting a CTEK to cig lighter socket attachment, so I can keep the doors closed, and still get external power.

Phl I just noticed that you mention a 25A fuse in your battery positive. I have 30A according to the manual. So you may have a little more than you thought.

Originally Posted by murray073

Barry, sorry for taking a while to get back, I've been on night shift. I ran the 30a circuit through a relay that is then switched by the 15 a circuit. That way I use the heavier circuit only when the ignition is on to prevent draining the cars battery when I'm not driving. I am only powering a 50 lt Chescold 3 way fridge/freezer in an off road camper. I cool it down with 240 before we leave & then use gas when camping. I'm not sure what it draws but have never had a problem keeping it cool (close to freezing) & always checked the wiring after long drives & there was never any increase in temp or other signs of overheating.

Cheers, Murray

Cheers Murray. Thats the way to go and is the way I have decided. I think many just wire up to the ign positive (15A) and then blow fuses etc. Unfortunately I fear I may well have to add an anderson plug at the rear with something more than te 30A supply as the redarc charger I have will peak at 35A. Batteres always charged before I leave but will draw current when I depart camp in the morning after a discharge over night. I dont need a 25A charger but it comes with an MPPT for solar input so thought it was the best way. Why don'r redarc put a solar regulator in their smaller chargers

Originally Posted by murray073

Barry, sorry for taking a while to get back, I've been on night shift. I ran the 30a circuit through a relay that is then switched by the 15 a circuit. That way I use the heavier circuit only when the ignition is on to prevent draining the cars battery when I'm not driving. I am only powering a 50 lt Chescold 3 way fridge/freezer in an off road camper. I cool it down with 240 before we leave & then use gas when camping. I'm not sure what it draws but have never had a problem keeping it cool (close to freezing) & always checked the wiring after long drives & there was never any increase in temp or other signs of overheating.

Cheers, Murray

Hi Murray,
So i don't get off track here are you saying that you had the white 12s plug wired with the 30amp constant into a relay with the 15amp ign switching the relay? What earth pin did you use?
I then assume you had a + & - coming out of the relay to whatever plug on the camper. Did this run to a charger or direct to the Camper batteries?

Hi Scary, I put the relay in the 30 amp circuit in the wiring in the car, before the 12s plug. I then used the 15 amp ignition switched circuit to switch the relay, which then gave me an ignition controlled 30 amp circuit at the 12s plug. I have a separate 12s male plug on the camper which is wired directly to the fridge in the camper. The earth from the camper through the male 12s plug then connects to the original 30amp pin in the female 12s plug on the car. The camper doesn't have batteries in it, I just use the battery/alternator in the car to keep the fridge cold until I put it on gas when stopped overnight.

Hope I explained it clearly.

Cheers, Murray

Guys, this is a great conversation and I'd really love to hear what LR Australia advise on the use of the 12s socket.

What is confusing me most of all is that I haven't seen much discussed about this in the past and it would seem like a obvious solution to charging a camper battery or running a fridge on the move. I've read heaps of articles describing an isolator on 6b&s wired to a rear Anderson plug which certainly allows for high amps.

The wiring in of a relay sounds ideal, elegant and simple. This pretty much guarantees you can't drain the cranking battery if you leave the trailer connected for an extended stop and have a near flat camper battery.

I have a dual battery setup with an isolator that works flawlessly but now am looking to be able to charge a 3rd battery in my camper trailer. My need is to be able to charge/top up my 130ah camper battery while on the move or to run the car to give the battery a charge when stopped away from 240v for extended periods of time.

If it is viable to use the 12s socket for this, it would be by far the cheapest and simplest solution to providing charging power to the camper.

The questions I would have are
- even though the 12s pin (pin 4?) may be 30A fused, are we certain the wiring handles at least 30A? Surely it should...
- what sort of Amps would a 50% flat 130ah AGM battery in a camper draw from a D3 alternator/cranking battery. Could it be more than 30A?
- I assume you wouldn't need any sort of regulator/charger in the circuit to charge the camper battery as the alternator and main battery are being used to deliver the 12v to the pin.

Originally Posted by Muddy Diver

Phl. Good to hear someone getting a reasonable output from their solar panels.

Using an MPPT rather than a regular regulator; makes a difference. Don't forget that was also the max output I'm looking at, as that's what's likely to blow the fuse.