Thread: D4 Wheels on Camper

These are what I used with the centering spigot reduced to 70mm (Disco 2).

Wheel Adaptor Spacer 6 stud to 5 stud 50mm Camper trailer, 4WD, etc | eBay

Note:
Flat nuts on alloy wheels need centering spigot.
Taper wheel nuts self center.

These are engineered to do this and also have a centering spigot between the adapter halves.

Originally Posted by DiscoKym

These are what I used with the centering spigot reduced to 70mm (Disco 2).

Wheel Adaptor Spacer 6 stud to 5 stud 50mm Camper trailer, 4WD, etc | eBay

Note:
Flat nuts on alloy wheels need centering spigot.
Taper wheel nuts self center.

These are engineered to do this and also have a centering spigot between the adapter halves.

I ran D2 alloys on my camper for 5yrs without a centering spigot, running Commodore AL-KO drum hubs, never had an issue, but our camper is only 1.4T, dragged it all over the high country, the cape the flinders, the gulf, the simpson, the only time I broke a stud was when we change to Disc brake hubs, it was after I broke the stud I realised I had HQ Holden disc brake hubs 4,75 PCD and not Commodore, even with the broken stud I had trouble removing the rim, it was that tight, you wouldn't think 119 v 120 would make that much difference, anyway I went back to drums and it was all good and still is.

Anyway that's my rim story with the D2.

A lot to take in here, with offsets, spigot holes, tapering, etc etc.

A questions for those more knowledgeable than I, does the advent of the steel D3/4/5 wheel rims by Tuffant change the equation here at all?

Originally Posted by veebs

A lot to take in here, with offsets, spigot holes, tapering, etc etc.

A questions for those more knowledgeable than I, does the advent of the steel D3/4/5 wheel rims by Tuffant change the equation here at all?

That depends if the centre hole is large enough to fit over standard type trailer hubs, i see the problem being that vehicles with sealed hub units have the wheel mounting face out past the bearing so that the rim effectively sits onto a flat surface.
Where as a standard dual bearing hub has the wheel mounting face sitting almost near the center of the hub thus needing larger clearance to go over the outer bearing area.

Originally Posted by veebs

A lot to take in here, with offsets, spigot holes, tapering, etc etc.

A questions for those more knowledgeable than I, does the advent of the steel D3/4/5 wheel rims by Tuffant change the equation here at all?

The Tuffant steel wheel has the same bore diameter as the alloy wheels so I can't see them solving the hub issue.

Gecho 17" steels will fit AL-KO hubs, that what I have on my camper now, they also fit the car(D4 2.7L)

Look in the veranda apom(member Vendor) has 18" steel rims made for the D4 3.0l might want to see what they look like.

Here's my Gecho rims.

Thanks Redback,

So if your 17" Gecho steel wheels will fit, why wouldn't the tuffant ones (made by apom)?
I assumed the centre part, where the wheel nuts and spigot hole are would be identical between the wheels, but the apom/tuffant wheel has a different rim design to fit over the brake calipers? Or am I missing something obvious?

Originally Posted by veebs

Thanks Redback,

So if your 17" Gecho steel wheels will fit, why wouldn't the tuffant ones (made by apom)?
I assumed the centre part, where the wheel nuts and spigot hole are would be identical between the wheels, but the apom/tuffant wheel has a different rim design to fit over the brake calipers? Or am I missing something obvious?

I think you've misunderstood, the Tuffant steelies will fit both car and camper/caravan, it's the 17 steels that won't fit the 3.0l.