Thread: Offroad Trailer Build

Ok, Seriously.

The trailer will end up costing me about $5k to build. Then you have another $3k for the rooftop tent which I already have.

I reckon there is about $7k worth of labour in the build...so around $15k including labour if you were to have it built. But that will include a lot of stuff you only get in the top campers like a stainless steel kitchen with flush mounted staibless 2 burner stove and stainless sink, pull out awning, 2 100A/h AGM batteries, 3 lights, 240v power when available, electric brakes, D2 hubs etc etc.

Originally Posted by discowhite

whats the specs for the axle?? part number, length ect..

cheers phil

I have no idea. Dad's mate runs Alko in Victoria so he got it all made up for me. All I know is that it is a 50mm axle, D2 hubs, Ford bearings, and has exactly the same track as the Disco. I think the axle measures 1685mm from memory. I don't think there is any standard length for the axles, you just tell them what you want and they make it.

Update on trailer.

I haven't really gor much to show you. I have been mucking about on a few fiddly bits which don't look much but take a bit of time. I have made up some front stabalizer legs and a lift up bracker for the rear awning. All of these have been zinc plated for Bling!

I have also painted underneith and inside the trailer. I painted both with etch primer first. Underneith is painted with an underbody deadener which is a sticky tar based paint which you blow in with an air gun. It would have been easier to use the same stuff inside but I was worried the tar might get sticky on hot days so inside I have used a paint made for the lining tray of utes.

I have also mounted the shocks.

Hi Piddler

I am having my trailer reworked. I am not as gifted as the likes of Walker and Spudboy, so I have outsourced it.

Regarding your query axle above or below springs; I have spoken to a few Trailer Manufacturers and engineers, whom I have had a working relationship with. They are categorical there is no benefit or disadvantage either way. In fact, I had my axle inside the springs, and they are now outside - and I am having my work done privately, but by a Contractor for Treg Trailers, whom many would be aware of if not only for the Treg Hitches.

Worse case scenario, if you did lose your axle, just walk back a few hundred metres and pick it up. My axle and hubs are rated to 3.5t and would probally survive a head on with most other vehicles, if I lost it behind me. The trailer obviously wont go far, still attached to the vehicle. A land version of a storm anchor.

Originally Posted by walker

Yes, I thought about a long drawbar.......then I made it even longer.

No, really, I had a look around and some of the top price campers have drawbars around 2.4m!!! . I thought this was a bit too long so I comprimised and went for 2m. Once the box and gas bottles and stone protector all go on the drawbar it will not look so long.

I have made the spare wheel to go under the front section of the trailer while the water tank is under the rear section. If I end up having room on the drawbar I might put the spare wheel here as I don't like having it under the trailer. I did not want to have to have a swing away carrier at the rear.

Regarding the Drawbar, A good blueprint for a drawbar is distance between axle and hitch = distance of wheel base of towing vehicle (Centre Front Axle to Centre Rear Axle of Towing Vehicle).

Regards.

The Trailer is looking fantastic. Is the axle width equal of that to the D2.

If I had made my trailer from the Ground up - I would have matched it to my 110. However, given I am working with my old (but trusty) trailer I was not going to cut into the frame to reduce width between the tyres.

Anyway I should have had her back by now, but the guy working on it is dragging the chain a bit. Out of hours, on the side.

I will post pictures when I get her back.

Basically she has had new Axle and Hubs with Electric Brakes, extended Draw Bar and some more bracing. I am getting flanges welded in So A frame for the Rooftop tent can be mounted. I am still trying to keep my fold up/slide of lid, as this makes a good table top when camping for lengthy periods.

Anyway, You have done a great job, I can only imagine the pride and satisfaction you would have from building your own trailer. I am envious.

Regards.

Originally Posted by walker

I have also painted underneith and inside the trailer. I painted both with etch primer first. Underneith is painted with an underbody deadener which is a sticky tar based paint which you blow in with an air gun. It would have been easier to use the same stuff inside but I was worried the tar might get sticky on hot days so inside I have used a paint made for the lining tray of utes.

The Ute liner stuff is fantastic but for future reference if u use the tar based deadener the trick is to spray over it once it had set with an enamel spray paint.... this will give it a solid feel and wont go soft.... my 2 cents..

looking good walker!!


more pics....

Update:

Started the electrics today.

It will have :
2- 100a/h AGM batteries
1- Hardwired light in cargo area of trailer
4- Merit sockets (2 for lights, 1 for fridge , 1 for 12v shower)
1- 12v water pump
1- 3 stage 15A smart Charger
1- 240v input which will be hard wired to the battery charger and 1 double GPO

Have I forgotten anything?

The charger looks very good (on paper as I don't have it yet) and can act as a power supply when hooked up to 240v.

The fridge will be mounted in the Disco so the fridge plug is only for if we are stopping somewhere for a few days and we will keep the fridge near the kitchen for easy access.








I have also put down marine carpet on the floor which should protect the floor and stop stuff sliding around.