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Thread: Trailer brake controller

  1. #21
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    thanks for that, yes I was looking on ebay.
    I had a Redarc in my Ford but while not a huge pain I did have to continually adjust the brake power "on-the-fly" sometimes thats not convenient.

    It seems the P3 does it all for you.

    Its going on a 94' Rangie so i expect the wiring wont but quite as complicated as the D3 and above but I will probably get some one to do it for me.

    It also seems that the redarc and P3 are about the same $$$
    Thanks

  2. #22
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    Yep P3 is the way to go!

    As for Prodigies...well they can be a PITA ...so you sit three of 'em in the back of the trailer and when you want to stop you yell at 'em to drag their feet

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by harlie View Post
    “Prodigy” and “P3” are 2 different controllers – there are ebay sellers advertising "Prodigy P3” but this is not accurate – it is a P3. They look different – the P3 has 2 front mounted buttons either side of the much larger screen, but are very close in workings; the P3 has some cool data outputs for the driver (so what) but the big difference is the P3 can handle electric/hydraulic marine systems where the Prodigy can’t.

    Both units are made by Tekonsha, The Prodigy is actually now discontinued and replaced by a “Prodigy P2” – I actually can’t see any difference. You can still buy parts for the original and brilliant Prodigy but parts/extras for the P3 will not fit the prodigy and vice versa.

    But to answer your question – Yes the P3 is the way to go.

    And... If you have a D3/4, RRS or L322 - you need someone who has a clue. The trigger has to come from the ECU output harness, not the pedal
    Has anyone experience of both the original Tekohsha Prodigy and the current Tekonsha P3?

    I have the original Prodigy and never want to go back to over-ride brakes and I take your point about Prodigy Vs P3. My issue currently is that I want to leave a controller permanently in my spare RRc and can buy the P3 from extreme 4X4 in Vic for $149, where the Prodigy P2 is closer to $200 (or more).

    When you look at the Tekonsha website you find no mention of the original Prodigy, but they do show the Prodigy P2 (which I am assuming means "Prodigy 2") which looks exactly the same as the original Prodigy has specs:
    • Reverse battery protection for both vehicle and breakaway
    • Designed to work with electronic over hydraulic brake systems
    • Numerous mounting options - including 360 degree vertical rotation
    • Digital display depicts voltage delivery to trailer during braking
    • No level adjustment necessary - it adjusts itself to varying terrain as you drive
    • Great for backing into tough spots! Works proportionally in reverse with the ability to disable when not needed
    • Produces stops that are in proportion to vehicles deceleration rate
    • "Boost" feature gives users the ability to apply more initial trailer braking power when towing heavier trailers
    • Continual diagnostics check for proper connection, shorted magnet conditions and much more
    • Quick and easy disconnect feature allows user to remove and store the control when not in use
    • Electric trailer brake control for up to 4 braking axles
    • Limited lifetime warranty
    The P3 has specs:
    • 1-4 axle trailers
    • Distinct, easy to see LCD display with multiple color and contrast options
    • User can customize to choose English, French or Spanish display
    • Allows the user to switch between Electric and Hydraulic brakes
    • Highly advanced, easy-to-understand, roadside diagnostics
    • Easy access, "Up-Front' controls
    • The original "Boost" feature allows for different levels of customized braking
    • Compact, dash-hugging design
    • Unique, easy-to-use, clip-mounting systems
    • Quick disconnect for easy storage; convenient storage pouch included
    • Limited lifetime warranty
    I don't know, it seems that the Prodigy P2 is a superior unit to the P3 because it seems to have more functions. Particularly:
    • Continuous diagnostics check.
    • Proportional braking in reverse.
    • Reverse battery protection.
    So unless Spanish language is important it seems that the P2 is superior to the P3.

    Anyone else have more info?

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  4. #24
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    Whilst I haven't fitted my P3 yet, the docs say "The P3 will brake proportionally in reverse." It also has over-rides for its HOLD and BOOST functions in reverse.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
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  5. #25
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    I've currently got a P3 fitted to my Disco 2. I had the Prodigy in my Disco1.

    I was concerned that the P3 would be less capable than the Prodigy because they are significantly cheaper, but there is no noticeable difference in functionality. The P3 actual has a few extra features built in such as a voltmeter function. The most significant difference seems to be in the display on the front of the unit. The P3 has an nice LCD display that changes colour depending on what it is doing. The Prodigy has the basic LED display.
    -- Paul --


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  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Watpub View Post
    Hi guys,

    I'm new to the forum so pardon the ignorant questions. I've recently ordered a Disco 4. I enquired at ARB about getting a brake controller and they said they wouldn't fit to a Disco because of the complicated electronics in the car (sounded weird to me!).

    I notice that Prodigy's are going on eBay for around $169. The Disco salesman quoted me around $800 all up for the controller and fitting... um, someone's cashing in here and it ain't me !

    I'd like to go the fleabay route but I'm a bit worried about after-market fitting. Does anyone know how hard or complicated it is to fit a Prodigy to a Disco 4 - could any competent automotive sparky do it?

    Thanks

    Ron
    Typical ARB comment. Also I wouldnt trust an Auto sparky - they mostly know little about landrover oddities.

    I fitted a P3 to my disco3 a couple of months ago. It took about 10 mins of searching around disco3.co.uk to understand what is needed.

    You cut the feed for the trailer brake lights (I did it at the fuse panel in the boot) and stick a 25c diode in (make sure they still work or you have the diode the wrong way round!) then take the trigger for the controller from the trailer side of that diode. Piece of p***.

    If you manually apply the trailer brakes with the switch on the controller, only the trailer brake lights will come on (not the disco's) but I don't see how that matters. Also you need to run 2 wires forward (brake and trigger) rather than just 1 for the brake.

    Make sure you have a really good earth at trailer harness pickup and the controller itself.

    Not sure about D4 but there is a perfect ready hole in the fire wall (just push a screwdriver through) inboard from the brake master cylinder, in the box where the second battery goes. PM me if you want to know more.

  7. #27
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    NavyDiver is offline Very Very Lucky! Gold Subscriber
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    p3 and a good auto sparky

    Put a p3 in my D3 last week (RITTA) then another in my dads car. Both work very well and the research recomending them is genuine. Ritta suggested another brand- I took the P3 to them to fit. Power Auto Electrical in Nunawadding ( Chris) has worked on a lot of Landrovers in the UK and I thnk he would be worth checking out for you. He sells the P3 thought you can get them cheaper on ebay like most things

    Ritta put a anderson plug in for me as well, need to take it back as it is where my backside scraps on the nice smooth tracks I enjoy

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