Thread: Yes its another " want to build a camper trailer" post.

Originally Posted by Rob Bruce

Ahhhh, mine goes like this, wheels slightly back of centre, draw bar longer than normal, this makes it back real easy. and stable going forward, landcriser 60 or 75 series front leaf springs with 1.5 t 45mm axel [ to take a real beating] . high sides, water tank under but not in vunrible place, room for 3 jerrys at front on draw bar then spair wheel, off road coupling, mud gards with side protection a must, canvas torno cover fitted. this is a home made one with some help with a frends sheet metal folder, excluding labour and wheels and springs which I had it cost about $400. cheep ay. best of all I have not been able to destroy it yet. Oh nearly forgot the back opens to form a kitchen etc the rest of the space is for gear and tent ect.

Rob

Sounds like what i have in mind, trailer was $147 off ebay, i already have 10 x spare D1 steel rims, the drawbar is already long enough as it has a spare laying flat on it, i have a 45mm axle and hubs that are transit van pattern which is the same as LR, i also have a spare disco spare wheel carrier that i will bolt to drawbar. Just need to get new larger guards ($62pr in CP from trailer place ) and some tube for a tie rail. So i reckon another $200 should have it done minus things like a water tank /kitchen etc. Springs i will wait till its all made and then see how it sits.

Originally Posted by rar110

I am looking at building a trailer using a s/wagon rear tub, s/wagon rear doors (without window frame) for access to storage or slide out draws/kitchen, coil axle (without centre) with a-frame and t-arms, rear of 110 chassis from springs back, and putting a roof top tent on top.

I have the tub, chassis rear, axle, disco wheels.

what is the weakest or most stressed point in a trailer chassis?

I would say the draw bar but it if its balanced correctly it shouldnt be any more stressed than the rest of the frame - offroad would stress the drawbar though.