Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 38

Thread: 101 Front diff

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Cornubia
    Posts
    131
    Total Downloaded
    0

    101 Front diff

    Still chasing the noises in the drive train when I back off at any speed over 30 K's. I decided to pull the front drive shaft off and have a drive with the CD locked.
    The noises decreased dramatically, while there is still some noise when backed off it does not sound like some part is being tortured and trying to escape as it did before.
    I drove it about 7klm after a cold start, got home and parked, jumped underneath to see if I could feel any play in the front diff pinion flange and near burnt my fingers. After such a short drive, with no shaft fitted and flange was really very hot. The rest of the diff housing had virtually no heat in it but was considerably warmer around where the flange fits.
    My theory is with the original front shaft totally stuffed and lots of play along with the normal 101 shaft angle issues that the pinion bearing on the diff have been damaged.
    Just looking for anyones thoughts, agreement or disagreement before I start pulling it apart.
    Anyone know where I can get a diff housing spreader?

    Cheers,
    Peter

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    13,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Sals diffs generally run hot, but that sounds excessive.

    I agree - it sounds like you might have a pinion bearing failing.

    A spreader isn't needed. You can remove the centre with gentle pressure from a couple of tyre levers and refit with a soft hammer.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,906
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Garrrycol has my diff spreader.
    A normal speader for a sals or dana 60 will most likely not fit on the front of a 101 due to the close location of the RHS front spring to the spreader lug hole on the housing.
    The one that garry has will fit the front diff.
    You will not need a spreader just to remove and refit the diff centre.
    You can carefully lever it out and in.
    The bearing preload for the pinion is easily checked by jacking up, the front wheels and use a spring guage or if experienced by feel on the drive flange.
    You can inspect the outer pinion bearing by removing the pinion oil seal and looking inside.
    You must be careful not to lose or up set any shims under the drive flange when it is removed.
    The shims control the bearing preload.
    The inner bearing must be inspected by removing the diff cover and looking carerfully ..........you may not need to remove the diff centre.
    When refitting the drive flange on the splines on the pinion shaft , use loctite retaining compound or similar to take up any wear or to stop movement for the tailshaft buzz.
    I recommend a new oil seal and a speedi seleeve fitted on the drive flange to help keeping things oil free.
    With the front tailshaft out and centre diff locked I recommend playing with rear tailtshaft angles via the use of spring taper wedges between the spring and spring perch on the diff tube as rear tailshaft angles are important too.
    If you are going to pull the front diff apart it would be a great time for a front locker...........but it is a lot of work as those front CV joints have to come apart to remove the axles to drop the centre and a spreader will be needed for the ARB locker setting up.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,906
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I think the pinion preload is controlled under the drive flange via shims and also a crush tube and these can be damage by over tighting the drive flange nut , or the flange nut comming loose and wearing away the shims with the small amount of movement...........and them some one finds the nut lose and retightens it and now the preload becomes too much for the bearings as the shims have previously worn away a little.
    One other thing to note, a loose drive flange nut.....(not enough preload and bearing play) will cause a wine when the diff is driving the vehicle on the over run as the diff pinion is sucked into the crown wheel slightly causing the noise.
    Ron

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,616
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by 101 Ron View Post
    Garrrycol has my diff spreader.
    You will be getting it back soon

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Cornubia
    Posts
    131
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Ya call that a diff spreader!!!

    This is a diff spreader ----



    Got it out and apart. No sign of serious wear or heat on the bearing surfaces.

    101Ron - >....and them some one finds the nut lose and retightens it and now the preload becomes too much for the bearings
    I think you are right on the mark Ron. There were hammer marks on the flange nut trying to lock it so someone has probably had a little tighten up and stuffed the preload.

    Air locker would be good but I don't think I would get one within a few weeks. Perhaps there is somebody out there with one they could not possibly fit in the coming southern winter, especially if they had a severely sloped driveway, they could send it to me and I could make sure it fits a 101.

    Cheers,
    Peter

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,616
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I am on to you - no.

    Why did you pull the friggin lot out?

    While it is out - take the tubes out of the diff centre housing and rotate the centre housing so that the front driveshaft angles will improve to get rid of the rumble - that way no cutting or welding is required.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,906
    Total Downloaded
    0
    You have the diff apart.
    It is locker time as it too much hard work to fit it later.
    If you really want to you could get the parts in a week.
    ARB has series 3 salisbury lockers in stock.
    Anthony in Melbourne should still have some conversion gears.
    Fitting one gets the 101 into Pinzguaer and volvo C303 terriory.
    After having the front locker for a while now I can say it is worth while and places where things were a bit slippery or tough before are so much easier with less speed and wear and tear.
    That tail shaft you have on the front is that a double cardon joint both ends or at one end only ?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Cornubia
    Posts
    131
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I am on to you - no.
    Garry, I thought it was a fine idea.
    With having to pull the diff apart and also fit the Haystee springs it was only another 30 minutes to get the diff in an easy place to work on. Also allows me to clean things up properly. Is it really possible to take the tubes out of the diff housing? Looks like a big ask to me.

    Ron, I will investigate you thoughts on the locker and talk to Anthony (since Garry is being so selfish with his). The double cardon joint is only on one end of the shaft and this only fits on the transfer case end.

    Cheers,
    Peter

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,616
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by PeterP View Post
    Also allows me to clean things up properly.
    Cheers,
    Peter
    Why bother - two trips offroad and it will be just as crappy as it was before and the dirt never comes off. I completely repainted the whole underside of my 101 just before I put it back on the road and now 8 months later it is just as crappy as it was and it gets an underbody wash after each trip offroad.

    The front (and rear) axle housing is a three piece item so it was put together at some stage so logically could come apart - I am not sure whether the tubes screw in or were were pressed in.

    Why don't you try to pull yours apart (heat and brute force comes to mind) and tell us how it is done. That way when I put my locker in the front I can also twist my diff.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!