Thread: Monster 6 Turbo Diesel into a 101.

Having removed the V8, LT95 and hoses etc, the space left is surprisingly big... Or so I thought. Having stripped the chassis, pto's, wiring, etc off the Cummins it looked surprisingly small.... Or so I thought... And then the two meet. That holes tiny, and that engine is bloody massive! Having measured up, it'll all fit nicely once in, but getting it in will be another story. I had planned to leave the engine and box together but to get the nose of the engine down below the two overhanging seat plates is not going to happen with the box attached. The compressor will sit overhanging the LH chassis rail just behind the LH side access cover, so along with the turbo on the RH side, the engine will have to be lowered in where the gearbox sits and then slid forwards into position.

Here's as it was left this evening, sat atop the 101. Hopefully I'll have it sat roughly in position tomorrow.

I reckon you are right with the engine mounts, mine has stretched the rubbers sideways so I think I will make up some adaptors to sit the mounts flatter if it all goes ok.

It does look a big unit

Just a thought here... But when I did the auto conversion on my old GS I found the space available (and access in general) improved greatly when I undid the 8 bolts holding the rear body down and stuck it out of the way, not to mention the extra 8 or 9 inches of space that appears as the hole in the rear tray doesn't line up with the crossmember in the chassis...

Another 6 or 8 bolts has the roll bar off and you'll have enough space you could pretty much swing the engine through the front of the truck.

It's not a big job to open up the space so why not make it easier for yourself?

Originally Posted by DasLandRoverMan

Just a thought here... But when I did the auto conversion on my old GS I found the space available (and access in general) improved greatly when I undid the 8 bolts holding the rear body down and stuck it out of the way, not to mention the extra 8 or 9 inches of space that appears as the hole in the rear tray doesn't line up with the crossmember in the chassis...

Another 6 or 8 bolts has the roll bar off and you'll have enough space you could pretty much swing the engine through the front of the truck.

It's not a big job to open up the space so why not make it easier for yourself?

Lifting is the issue... The tractor wouldn't touch it, and the beam its all slung on is at about its max... Good call re the rear tub but as the transfer case handbrake drum will end up under that cross member Im prob going to have to separate the engine and box.. I'll see how the first hour of the day goes tomorrow! Thinking we might hang the engine from the roof, and the box from the FEL, then I can tip the nose, and slide it in, and then roll the 101 back and lower the box in. Watch this space!

A lifting beam and a block and tackle is all you need!!! Sling it off balance and perch on the end to set it level!!!



In this case I got the point of balance wrong, but by the time I realised it also occoured that I couldn't be arsed sorting it.

Well, after a re jig this morning moving the pulley block to the central point of the engine and using Das's strap idea around the box attached to the loader I was able to lower it in nose first. The things that I thought would be tight are not, and the things I thought would clear are tight. The compressor head touches the LH side panel just in front of the LH access panel, and the boost compensator atop the pump is very close to the piece of alli that the LH seat squab sits on..... but it'll fit!

So, I now have two options... Option 1. Move the engine a further 40 mm back and fit the large engine driven fan. This option will help with the front prop clearance, but not with the rear, will guarantee good cooling, but will also mean the gear lever will be a little further back than I'd like (or has to be modified).
Option 2. Move the engine forward 60mm, and try and use a large electric fan in front of the intercooler/blower motor assy. With this option, the compressor head would be in front of the LH middle cab support bar and I could relieve the alli in front of it to allow the engine to come to the left. The front prop would be shorter but if the engine went 50mm to the left, this would help with prop clearance and rear prop length. It does however involve a little bit of tin work modifying.. (Something Im trying to avoid). The gear lever position would be ideal tho.

With both options, as the engine sits (pictured), bump stop to axle clearance and sump to diff clearance are similar, but with about 15mm more between the sump and diff. I was thinking I'd have to make a two piece front prop but if I can get the engine to the left another 50mm and down a little, I'll be able to get around the front prop issue, whilst still hoping it'll clear the diff nose as its moved to the left a bit!!!