Thread: DIY oil change on a PUMA - Don't use just any old oil

My dealer in Perth Southern Landrover told me to use Magnetic if I want to change at 10,000ks they only do 20.000 k free service. I did the filter and oil at 30,000 and it ran very well on the magnetic but they got me to come in and change it again after only 3000 ks because it was 12 months since the last dealer service.
Mike

Hi All,

dealer use Castrol LSX profession OE 5-30 on non-PDF puma defender
and
this product is discontinued and replaced by Castrol EDGE Professional OE-X
source: http://www.tds.castrol.com.au/pdf/52...62_2007_10.pdf

I purchased 20Lt OE-X for $199 south of Sydney....


Cheers
Martin

oops

this is the correct PDF for OE-X

http://www.tds.castrol.com.au/pdf/10...79_2011_10.pdf

Originally Posted by Defender13

Hello guys, just a quick update on this C1 oil. So far I drove about 2000 km on it including the last weeks heat wave with daily temps above 42 degrees an average.
The results are so far more than promising. My engine runs very smoothly, temp gauge is just below half range (as always), performance is perfect.
This one might be subjective but I think it's a bit quieter - at least enough to be noticed by me
I drove it in various conditions and it is always the same - no issues, excellent run. I'll update this info after another about 3000 - 4000 kms.
Frank

Defender 13,

How have you found the Fuchs C1 now after a few more km's? I changed the oil on my 2013 2.2 with the Penrite Enviro + C-4 5w-30 Full Synthetic Oil and had it removed after 3000km as the engine was noticeably nosier.

According to Penrite, this product meets the specs and they couldn't provide any more info as to why the engine was noisier.

I want to change the oil every 5000km, however looking for a product that provides a smoother engine than the Castrol OE-E professional.

edit: this is on a 2.4 Puma

I have been using the Fuchs Titan SuperSyn F 5w30, which meets the Ford specs, since Jan 2013.

Truck definitely runs more smoothly than when it was on the Castrol crap.

I did my first ‘home service’ on my 2008 2.4 at 30,000ks. Changed oils, filters etc.
I used
Liqui-Moly Top Tec 4500 5w-30 in the engine.
Liqui-Moly HYPOID-GETRIEBEOL (GL5) 85W-90 in the differentials.
Liqui-Moly HOCHLEISTUNGS-GETRIEBEOL (GL4+) 75W-90 in the transfer case.
Liqui-Moly have no recommended manual transmission oil for this vehicle.
Filters: Britparts service kit. Included all filters and sump plug.
Note: Fuel filter is a little dodgy the way it is held in the housing/filter head.
Results.
Engine running quieter – Not noticeably
Engine running smoother – Appears to run smoother
Better fuel economy – Appears to be better. Have not done the calculations yet
Engine running cooler – Not noticeably
Gearbox and gear changes are noticeably smother and quieter.
Remembering I have not changed the gearbox oil yet, only changed the transfer case and differential oils.
My summary:
This oil is expensive, but I am pleased with the results. Will I use this oil next time? Defiantly.
Britpart filters. Their OK, they appear to do the job, only time will tell. Might look another brand of fuel filter next time?

Originally Posted by Foxtrot

Defender 13,

How have you found the Fuchs C1 now after a few more km's? I changed the oil on my 2013 2.2 with the Penrite Enviro + C-4 5w-30 Full Synthetic Oil and had it removed after 3000km as the engine was noticeably nosier.

According to Penrite, this product meets the specs and they couldn't provide any more info as to why the engine was noisier.

I want to change the oil every 5000km, however looking for a product that provides a smoother engine than the Castrol OE-E professional.

Hi Foxtrot,


as mentioned in my message to you today, this oil meets all the expectations I had and by far exceeds the Castrol. Based on your comment above - make sure (this is an engineering recommendation ) that you use C1 spec as mentioned before in this thread. It has to do with the turbo used on this engine - I recommend to read the specs of C1 certified oils (and Ford's specs for that matter) to understand the details. The rule of thumb is that is much cheaper to use correct oils spec than to replace turbo ! Also EGR, if you are still having it enabled, is suffering less because of this spec. It generates (C1 oil) lesser volume of ashes and other rubbish that kills the EGR valve prematurely.
I hope this helps, Foxtrot.


For all other Landy fans - after about 15000 kms the performance is excellent, engine run is smooth, very quiet, temperatures perfect no matter what ambient conditions. It is now official that for time being this is my oil of choice .

Without doing Oil analysis these comments are essentially useless...

Pre change, post change and ongoing...

How do you any of you know that your engines are not wearing bearings faster / slower etc. etc.

Simple answer is: You don't...