Thread: Tray Mounts

I finally had a chance to lift the tray off my 130 puma to repair the front cracked tray mounts. I ended up bending up some 5mm plate, sleeving the original mounts internally and dropping the reinforcement down further on the chassis for better support. Then used 8mm high tensile bolts to secure the supports to the chassis, welded the supports on the outside of the chassis(not linking the welds to avoid cracking the chassis) and then fitted the folded 5mm top section to the mounts to ensure sideways movement is limited, rubber blocked the tray and lifted it back on.
Its much quiter and looking at the tray movement behind the rear window whilst on rough dirt roads, its definately stiffened things up...time will tell when im fully loaded and lifting wheels if its worked or not!

Wish I found this thread earlier mines done the exact same thing front mounts broken and repaired and the next mounts along also broken and repaired badly now the bolts work lose all the time and the tray wobbles around like a sausage in a hall way. and have no space to pull it all off and repair it correctly would also like to fit a spare above the fuel tank jap style

Hi all, my ex-Telstra extra cab box body was mounted with six bolts across the rear crossmember but the front mounts were solid bolted to outriggers located just behind the cab. The left outrigger was just long enough to support the body mount , about 125 mm square while the right side one was the usual length and also supported the tray for a second battery. With over 291000 kms and no chassis cracking, this seems to have been a successful method of attaching what turns out to be a fairly heavy body, about 500kgs, by my estimate. With all the tools etc I carried it would have easily been 800kg as a common weight. I have installed an alloy tray in place of the box body to suit the new requirements of carrying a Trayon Camper and have used essentially the same mounting method. The front mounts are short legs made from 10mm mild steel and consist of a square base welded to verticals with an L section when looked at from above. The base is bolted to the chassis outriggers using the original holes while the tray is bolted to the top of the verticals using existing holes in the Z section main supports. By sheer luck, the tray longitudinals were the same distance apart as the outside of the 130's chassis rails and fitted beautifully. Incidently, the main supports of the alloy tray turn out to be galvanised steel , less than 2mm thick. Is this usual in an otherwise all alloy tray? Hope this is useful. Cheers, 130man.

Any chance of some pics?

Hi , I will try to take and upload some photos over the coming weekend. Cheers, 130man.

I removed and refitted my tray (130 DC) on Sunday. I needed to lift it to fit the water tank and while it was up I fitted rubber between the chassis and the mount points as suggested in the body manual. I made up a front bar that was welded to the tray to fit the frontmost mounts when I got the tray, this is pictured below.



The next set of mounts back are also used with this tray with a couple of large bolts through the bottom of the recessed part picking up the second set of mounts. I have fitted rubber as well as a set of compression springs to the second mount which should stop any damage there.

The second mount is visible in the y of the cables in this shot



Spring mount fitted



I made the spring mounts from a couple of valve springs donated from an old International diesel motor on the tip at the inlaws place. I just needed to enlarge the hole in the retaining cup to fit the bolts through and it all fitted nicely.



The rear of the tray is rubber mounted to the back crossmember and also bolted to the two pads that are in front of it.



There was no sign of stress on the mounts after 10,000KM from new but we're off to do Goog's track , Maralinga and back to Coober Peedy via the Anne Beadell so I wasn't brave enough to go with the tray as solidly mounted as it was.

Regards,
Tote