Thread: Awesome Fuel Economy NOT!!!!

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Dont refuel from metal jerries use plastic ones and not blue or white ones.
(ok if you can afford them you can refuel from stainless steel jerries)

Why?

Considering buying some Jerry cans... what digs?

they can rust on the inside.....putting particals in your fuel.

Hi All,

Just new to the Defender experience and looking to get the best from what seems a great car.
Our Defender is 2009, 110 Wagon with drawers and roof rack, so a bit of weight and wind resistance AND we tow the Tvan. Car now has 79,000kms on clock.

My main concern has to do with towing. On bitumen I like to sit on about 95kph, in 6th that means 1900rpm (ish) so I think that is not sufficient RPM, so then go to 5th and then at 2400rpm (ish), a bit too high.

My thoughts/concerns have to do with best engine speed for such work, and is the transmission up to such work, ie 6th gear at say 95 to 100kmh while towing with roof rack etc. I guess gearbox oil temps will be getting up there when travelling (while towing) in 6th in any case.

Once on dirt, at lower speed I don't really have a concern as the speed/ratio mix works really well.

Look forward to any input and thank-you.

Rob.

Originally Posted by Babs

Mmmmmm just got 443klm out of 66 Litres my calculations that's about 14.8 L p/100klm

What happened to the 10.5, 9.9. 11's etc that everyone claims.

Shock Horror, it's worse than the Hilux.

Is this because its new? Needs to be run in? Maybe. Any thoughts?

I'm a little worried I wanted to fit the 45L rear quarter which is by my calculations now only going to give me an extra aprox 250klm. Far short of the 1,000klm range in total I was hoping for.

Some reassurance would be nice. But don't lie.

I have a 2012 110 double cab and have always been able to get around 600km out of a tank (since new), that's when the light comes, usually takes just under 60 litres. I don't drive into the city and get stuck in traffic everyday though - that would definitely change things...

We spent some time in the Vic high-country a couple of weeks ago (first time with the new girl) and basically never got in higher gear than 3rd and maybe half the time was low-range 1st or second. Of course I expected heavier consumption, but almost half? Luckily I took 2 jerries else I'd still be in the high-country... Managed 360km on the first tank, and 380 on the second tank before we hit mixed terrain and the road home and the fuel consumption improved again.

No 1 - check tyre pressures. I run 40psi all around on the road. Original tyres still with about 25% of tread left have done 116,000 - unbelievable. They are rotated and balanced pretty much quarterly.

Being used to driving semi's I must add that driver behaviour is the BIGGEST factor when comparing economy between similar vehicles. Just remember you are pushing a brick, if you want economy slow down and be more mindful of throttle openings. Small changes to driving style can bring BIG improvements.

FYI - My drive is a TD5 110. If I push much over 100kph fuel consumption goes up over the 12l/100km. Slow down to a more leisurely 95kph and we are getting around 10.5l/100km. Speed has a greater effect than weight (unless you get into tough offroad work).

Around town, I don't flog it - but I'm not soft on it either - I get 10.5l every time (air-con on, fridge running etc.). This is with a full rack, bull bar, 2 awnings etc.

If you want a 1000 range check out LRA's long range tank - I've just fitted the 127ltr jobbie and have gotten a little over 1000ks in my first few fills. I do like the look of the little auxillary you are talking about, worthwhile if like me you appreciate range (wonder if it will fit with the LRA tank?).

There is an interesting comparison in the current issue of Australian 4wd Action - traveling at 80kph used 1.6l/100km less than at 100kph (this was in diesel Hilux's). The difference in a brick between 100 & 110 would be at least this.

Speed = deeper pockets = more frequent refuelling
Sorry!

Just check last consumption which was the left over run from last weekend, it was 16.8L p/100. :0

I can understand driving style, tyre pressure, speed, yada yada yada contributes to higher consumption but does it justify 16.8L p/100 I could understand high 13's even 14's but 16's especially when the norm on the forum is around 11's.

Anyhow, I don't wont to speak to soon but I've done 180klm since yesterday's fill up and it's just on the first quarter mark usually I'd be pretty much at half tank by now. I'll wait and see, fingers crossed.

I have been more conscious of my driving style, tyre pressures are at 40psi always run road this pressure, so I should have my answer by the end of this tank just filled. If not LR Service Dept.

Off topic: the fumes don't smell like diesel fumes, some different type of smell I can't describe. I am assuming its from the Euro emissions requirements, I don't know much about it but I would be thinking this engine is really being restricted.

My 300tdi trayback runs at

9.5 l/100 to 10.5 l/ 95-100 km/hr. anything over just wastes fuel. weight doesn't come in until more than 1/2 tonne on the tray.

around town 9.5/100 is good. Sydney brisbane at speed limit is about 10.5 but at 95km/hr is 10

From the earlier discussion the type of tyre is also significant. XZA michelins on the road are very quiet and very long lasting with low drag . Running muddies etc increases the fuel burn by 1.5l/100km. Muddies and 110km/hr is a big hit.

Driving to suite conditions ahead eg not roaring upto the red lights then having to do a stop start as opposed to slowing down early to allow rolling through on the green saves a lot.

Biodiesel burns around 5% more but after a set of waxed filters I will only run jet A or Kero with 2% two stroke oil as an alternate.

[QUOTE] Biodiesel burns around 5% more but after a set of waxed filters I will only run jet A or Kero with 2% two stroke oil as an alternate


What do you mean by this!
Your run Jet A or Kero as an alternative?


Cheers, Mick.