Thread: Tips on rebuilding a 3 bolt steering box

The three bolt will almost certainly have bushes in it (as opposed to bearings of the later ones). Anyone worth having do the job will bore it out and fit bearings. Then if the shaft is damaged, usually around the bottom where the lower seal and dust seal are (water/dirt get between the two and it rusts) then it'll need to be ground and re-chromed. Not cheap.

The 4 Bolt is better as it has the bearings in it shouldn't see anywhere near the force. You have a 4 bolt by the sound of the last paragraph? I'd be rebuilding it, far less work should need to be done, even if the shaft needs chroming.

Originally Posted by clubagreenie

The three bolt will almost certainly have bushes in it (as opposed to bearings of the later ones). Anyone worth having do the job will bore it out and fit bearings. Then if the shaft is damaged, usually around the bottom where the lower seal and dust seal are (water/dirt get between the two and it rusts) then it'll need to be ground and re-chromed. Not cheap.

The 4 Bolt is better as it has the bearings in it shouldn't see anywhere near the force. You have a 4 bolt by the sound of the last paragraph? I'd be rebuilding it, far less work should need to be done, even if the shaft needs chroming.

There is little difference between the 3 and 4 bolt. the 4 bolt has a few more bits in it and is quite a bit harder to rebuild, its actually a pain and fiddly, apart from the very old 3 bolt, the 3 other main components apart from the housing almost fit inside a 4 bolt, apart from valveing there is very little difference.
As for dirt getting in the lower seal, I doubt this will happen since the body of the box is under pressure constantly.

There are no more bearings in a 4 bolt and a 3 bolt. my concern is the steering shaft IE the one with the pitman arm is has a shorter bush than the 3 bolt. Since this is where the majority of torque will be applied, the reduced surface area of the 4 bolt with indicates that it may be weaker than the 4 bolt. However it has a much better seal on the bottom, and much better than the older box with the chevron packing, those ones can just go in the bin.

Hard chroming cost 120, all the machining I did myself, but with the abundance of 3 bolt boxes laying about the place in addition to every one following the sheep trend of swapping out for 4 bolts. When in reality 1 day and 35 bucks will do the job (including dropping out and refitting). Add 30min if its an Isuzu.

Any comments on the quality of the steering response? I have heard that the 3 bolt is vague compared to the 4 bolt, but that could be a comparison of a worn 3 bolt to fresh 4 bolt.

Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh

Any comments on the quality of the steering response? I have heard that the 3 bolt is vague compared to the 4 bolt, but that could be a comparison of a worn 3 bolt to fresh 4 bolt.

i think the last part off your comment may be more often the case. but also harder for me to qualify.

the first box with the chevron packing's and the smaller pistons actually seemed about the same as the latter box i took out. but had light steering but a slow return, the piston seals looked ok when i ripped it down.

the last carnation of the 3 bolt feels the same as a 4 bolt to me.
But, diffident 110s all feel diffident ride height tiers etc all have an effect.

what i am trying to say is. for the cost i doubt that swapping to a 4 bolt is better than a 3 bolt

What usually causes the vagueness? Mine still feels vague after changing all the suspension bushes and tie rod ends. Steering box shaft has no sideways or up-down play, and drop arm isnt loose. Im thinking its something internal. Any ideas?

Originally Posted by AdsLandies

What usually causes the vagueness? Mine still feels vague after changing all the suspension bushes and tie rod ends. Steering box shaft has no sideways or up-down play, and drop arm isnt loose. Im thinking its something internal. Any ideas?

if your sure every thing is tight, then i would still check Rocco?? bushes wheel bearings, and pan-hand rod. the one from the chassis to the dif ( front)
wheel aliment and choice of tiers and pressures.

check every thing again. pump up the rubber say 50psi. play around with alinement, say from 1mm out to 1mm in at the rim

FWIW - I bought a NEW 4-bolt box recently - with new drop arm fitted.

Sent: Tuesday, 17 April 2012 6:04 AM

...

Hi Ben,
Thanks for your enquiry,
We have a brand new Genuine Power Steering Box in stock for your vehicle.
The price is $650.00 inc GST (not including freight)

...

Regards,

David Harris
Parts Sales Manager
All Four x 4 Spares
david@allfourx4.com.au
All Four x 4 Spares - Home
Phone: 02 4957 1117
Fax: 02 4957 3237

that's a good price, i have never seen them that cheep,

now all you have to do is drill out your chassis, and change the ends of your oil lines