Page 6 of 8 FirstFirst ... 45678 LastLast
Results 51 to 60 of 75

Thread: 98 110 Brake Calipers

  1. 16th August 2013, 05:24 PM #51
    uninformed
    uninformed is offline ForumSage
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    5,101
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Can anyone tell me, or hazard a guess to the Torque value I should be doing the caliper bolts up to? These are the bolts that join the 2 caliper halves. They are 7/16 UNF thread. The caliper body being some sort of cast steel? I will also be using some form of loctite.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  2. 16th August 2013, 06:43 PM #52
    460cixy's Avatar
    460cixy
    460cixy is offline YarnMaster
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    canberra
    Posts
    3,002
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Can't help with the torque I just do them up with a decent spanner or socket on a ratchet tight but not overboard I don't use loctite and haven't pulled any Down that's had it but really it couldn't hurt
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  3. 16th August 2013, 07:10 PM #53
    rick130's Avatar
    rick130
    rick130 is offline Moderator Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The heat generated will probably kill Loctite, but if you are going to use it, use 272 as it has the highest temp rating of the 'undoable' ones (+200*C)

    BTW, there are charts listing the appropriate bolt tension for various HT bolts in each thread/pitch.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  4. 16th August 2013, 08:07 PM #54
    uninformed
    uninformed is offline ForumSage
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    5,101
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Ok, so is loctite good practice in this situation? I thought I could see some residue on the bolts?? They are grade 5 if that helps.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  5. 16th August 2013, 08:31 PM #55
    rick130's Avatar
    rick130
    rick130 is offline Moderator Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I'd use it.

    Hang on, I remember now that I always did on the race cars, and they were steel bodied Lockheed's too (but twin piston)
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  6. 4th September 2013, 07:47 PM #56
    uninformed
    uninformed is offline ForumSage
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    5,101
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Well I finally got them back together.....All went pretty straight forward. I tried the intsall method in the seal kit instructions, that is:

    install seal
    install piston
    install wiper seal in wiper seal ring
    install wiper seal and ring to caliper

    I had trouble doing this, so on the advice of a memeber here, I went:

    install seal
    install wiper seal in wiper seal ring
    install wiper seal and ring to caliper
    install piston

    I used plenty of brake fluid on everything as the lube. It was very easy for me to do the ring and pistons as the calipers where halved when I did so, so access was good.

    Wrong or right I tightend the grade 5, 7/16 UNF bolts to 50 ft/lb, using loctite 272.

    I really hope I havent cross contaminated anything as the only way im going to know is when they are fitted up to the 110.

    Some part#s that may or may not help others:

    Bendix pads: DB1305/4WD (front) DB1306/4WD (rear)
    gallery seals: 3851-739 (front) RTC1137 (rear)
    pin/spring kits for pads: STC8575 (front) PFK1601 (rear)
    Bleed screw: RTC1526

    Fronts:


    Rears:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  7. 4th September 2013, 07:55 PM #57
    justinc's Avatar
    justinc
    justinc is offline Swaggie Vendor
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,728
    Total Downloaded
    0
    good job serge


    jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  8. 4th September 2013, 08:33 PM #58
    460cixy's Avatar
    460cixy
    460cixy is offline YarnMaster
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    canberra
    Posts
    3,002
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I allways fit the piston first then the dust seal but if its worked for you that's great. Biggest issue is getting the tin ring that the dust seal sits in to go in square with out bending it looks like you did fine to me
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  9. 4th September 2013, 08:56 PM #59
    uninformed
    uninformed is offline ForumSage
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    5,101
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by 460cixy View Post
    I allways fit the piston first then the dust seal but if its worked for you that's great. Biggest issue is getting the tin ring that the dust seal sits in to go in square with out bending it looks like you did fine to me
    I tried it your way first, as per the instructions. First go resulted in a bent ring......
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  10. 4th September 2013, 09:20 PM #60
    460cixy's Avatar
    460cixy
    460cixy is offline YarnMaster
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    canberra
    Posts
    3,002
    Total Downloaded
    0
    As I allways say there's more then one way to skin a cat . One shop I worked at for a few years used to make all the apprentices spend 6 months with each tradesman just to show them there's more than one way to get a job done right and I think it made them better tradesmen by the end of it.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
Page 6 of 8 FirstFirst ... 45678 LastLast
« New "90"..Delivery "schedule"? | Replacing Salisbury bearings »

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Forum Rules

Search AULRO.com ONLY!
 Search All the Web!