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Thread: 98 110 Brake Calipers

  1. #21
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    Serg.

    PM sent
    Wayne
    ​VK2VRC
    "LandRover" What the Japanese aspire to be
    Taking the road less travelled
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  2. #22
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    Wayne
    ​VK2VRC
    "LandRover" What the Japanese aspire to be
    Taking the road less travelled
    '01 130 dualcab HCPU locked and loaded
    LowRange 116.76:1

  3. #23
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    Looks like the EAC kit seals were ok and better than the non-genuine no name stuff that got sent as a mix up. Its almost worth buying the EAC kit just for the pistons and sourcing the seal kits.

    Re the Lockheed comment of their seals etc being the same as LR genuine......umm I would have thought that be obvious since Lockheed make the bloody brakes

    Can anyone confirm or deny if the my front pistons and seals are EXACTLY the same as the rear, all be it twice as many???

    Oh and Wayne, the chances of any of the brake places on the GC having some old dusty kits sitting on the shelf is FA....not LR country here mate except for all the new Tdics getting around.

  4. #24
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    Serg

    rears are the same just 2 less pistons and seals required
    Wayne
    ​VK2VRC
    "LandRover" What the Japanese aspire to be
    Taking the road less travelled
    '01 130 dualcab HCPU locked and loaded
    LowRange 116.76:1

  5. #25
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    Got my calipers stripped and soaking. Good old compressed air made "popping" the pistons out fun.....gees they make a good little "bang" I didnt think they would pop like that, so after the first piston came out, I took of one of my pluggers (thong) and placed it inbetween the pistons...a little bit of rubber dampening

    Rears were easy. Fronts only one piston came out of each caliper. The others had to be pulled out using channel lock multi grips around the outside of the piston. Just some twisting back and forth to break seal and then work out. I was not keeping/reusing the pistons as they were flaking so damaging them wasnt an issue.

  6. #26
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    Excellent, so you got them all out

  7. #27
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    yep, just took it easy as first time doing this and didnt want to fubar them. I will have a better idea after the calipers are cleaned. I have the new stainless pistons and genuine LR seals hear ready to go....

    I guess I need to know what brake fluid to use? So I use the same on assembly

  8. #28
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    DOT4 of whatever you can get readily.

    I like to use Castrol Response Super DOT4 as it has a higher wet and dry BP than standard DOT4 fluids but I'm not that fussed if I can't get it.
    I've always had a bias to Castrol with brake fluids just from when I was racing as their stuff was the standard.

    In big heavy sedans including touring cars everyone used Castrol SRF, regardless of who sponsored them and I used Response in all the Formula Fords (a light car doesn't generate the brake temps of a taxi cab) and never had a fluid related problem. BTW, our callipers were AP-Lockheed too, and we always used genuine AP seal kits.
    Having said that we always used Girling MC's too without issue and they're crap on a Land Rover

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninformed View Post
    yep, just took it easy as first time doing this and didnt want to fubar them. I will have a better idea after the calipers are cleaned. I have the new stainless pistons and genuine LR seals hear ready to go....

    I guess I need to know what brake fluid to use? So I use the same on assembly
    Ahhhh so you bit the bullet and bought genuine seals.In my opinion a good move and the EAC pistons will be fine.Another job for me to do here as well.Will add it to the list,if it ever stops raining
    Wayne
    ​VK2VRC
    "LandRover" What the Japanese aspire to be
    Taking the road less travelled
    '01 130 dualcab HCPU locked and loaded
    LowRange 116.76:1

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    main thing is don't split the calipers, use gentle compressed air to push pistons nearly all the way out, then grab with pliers and remove. Thorough cleaning with brake clean and compressed air, use either rubber grease (my usual way) or brake fluid to reassemble the inner seals and outer dust seal. Pistons should push in by hand, if not you have done something wrong

    They are easy peasy except for fitting the outer dust boot retaining ring, which can be a fiddle

    Those prices are cheap, there is no way for retail or wholesale stores with a shopfront than can compete with that. I can't even buy them from my suppliers for that, so trying to make a profit from the parts component of a job now is becoming harder and harder...

    JC

    Just one caution, they may be cheap - but are they crap. Especially on disc brakes, if you lose a seal you'll lose much of your brakes instantly. Iv'e bought some cheap kits from a parts shop here in Melbourne, a really cheap shop. I knew they were cheap, but I did not fit them, as around the same time I had a seal on a brake piston fail on one of my range rovers. I compared the cheap kit to a genuine kit, there were some differences in the quality of the shape of the seal, but more importantly the material felt different. The caliper that failed had been rebuilt by the previous owner with unknown parts.


    I'd buy and use cheap parts for everything else, just not the brakes.

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