Thread: Defender Puma 2.2 - voice your issues

Originally Posted by cafe latte

I noticed today grease marks on the inside of the front wheel rims. I checked and there were three or 4 stains on both sides. I am not sure but the source seems to be the track rod ends which appear to have grease on them. Odd because they dont have grease nipples so not sure how the grease got there, any thoughts and is this normal?
Cheers
Chris

Are they blobs of grease or just stains? Any photo's Chris? Could be just over grease of front uni's. If they don't wipe off excess at service then it can get thrown around the underneath a fair bit. Possibly swivel seal, but they usually leak around the swivel ball and then if bad throw the one shot grease, and if the inner seal has gone, then diff oil as well, all over the inside of your tyre. Hard to tell without pics.

I was at the range when I noticed so I have not looked properly yet, but a quick crawl under and the only grease seems to be the track rod end. I will look again tomorrow, but nothing seemed to have grease apart the track rods, the rest was clean. Odd it was both sides too. After breakfast I will have another look and see what is going on.
Chris

Highlights were
Warrenty
Rear main seal replaced, my pickup when wrapping tape around exhaust.
While replacing seal they noticed output shaft & flange flogged out so it was all replaced, a 07/7/14 build, so they were still not lubricating up to that point.
And the engine oil,
Castrol Edge Professional C1 @ $217.60 for the service or $74 for 5 liters from Super Cheap. (but A3/B4) not C1
Enough to put you off Dealer Servicing.

Hi

I see there is a lot of discussion about driveline slack which I presume causes the bunny hopping in Defenders ?

My previous Defender 2.4 Puma never experienced this so I was very surprised to see it so prevalent in my 2013 2.2 Puma. It is quite bad at times so should I get this checked ?

I don't believe it is my driving style as I've driven heaps of Land Rovers and other vehicles and have used varying techniques to try to overcome this current problem which only seems to be resolved by pushing in the clutch and letting the car settle.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated ?

Thanks

I find its important to make sure the clutch is fully out before pressing the go pedal.

Sent from my GT-P5210 using AULRO mobile app

Originally Posted by AndyG

Highlights were
Warrenty
Rear main seal replaced, my pickup when wrapping tape around exhaust.
While replacing seal they noticed output shaft & flange flogged out so it was all replaced, a 07/7/14 build, so they were still not lubricating up to that point.
And the engine oil,
Castrol Edge Professional C1 @ $217.60 for the service or $74 for 5 liters from Super Cheap. (but A3/B4) not C1
Enough to put you off Dealer Servicing.

I need top up oil is the Super cheap oil ok mixed with what is in?
Sorry for off topic
Chris

Only use the C1 oil. These engines are particular to their oils.

Originally Posted by AndyG

Highlights were
Warrenty
Rear main seal replaced, my pickup when wrapping tape around exhaust.
While replacing seal they noticed output shaft & flange flogged out so it was all replaced, a 07/7/14 build, so they were still not lubricating up to that point.
And the engine oil,
Castrol Edge Professional C1 @ $217.60 for the service or $74 for 5 liters from Super Cheap. (but A3/B4) not C1
Enough to put you off Dealer Servicing.

Yes mine's in for a rear main seal tomorrow. Be interesting to see if they find anything else.

Another thing, for NON-DPF 2.2 puma's I'm told by Castrol and local LR dealeryou actually need the A5 Castrol, not the C1.
Apparently it's an improtant difference.

Cheers
Tom